A Confession of St. AugustineHowells, William Dean
History
A Confession of St. Augustine
Howells, William Dean
Saint Augustine (Fla.) -- Guidebooks
The drive Round the Horn is the most characteristic of the drives about
St. Augustine, and is more comprehensive of the general interest than
any other. The bridge which you presently cross gives one of the fairest
prospects of the city, with its Andalusian towers and roofs, and then
you are on the way back to them, by a shell road winding through the
reaches and expanses of palmetto scrub, among the stems of the rather
spindling pines. The scrub is the wonder and the terror of the local
landscape, and, so far as I know, the whole Floridian landscape. Of all
the vegetable enemies of man it seems the most inexorable. You may cut
it, or burn its fans down to the roots; it bides its time, and after a
brief season of sparse grass, which the cows eat in default of other
herbage, the scrub renews its hold upon the nether regions, and must be
dug up, fiber by fiber, before the meager soil can be freed from it for
such crops as will grow in it. More crops will grow in what looks like
mere sand than you would imagine, or the Northern farmer or gardener
could hope to harvest from it. If you transplant the young trees from
among the scrub, they willingly flourish, when encouraged with a little
water, into columnar palmettoes, such as make the promise of a noble
avenue on the drive to the beautiful woodland called Lewis’s Point,
after a philanthropist whose public and private beneficences at St.
Augustine form a Tolstoyan romance. But this is not the place to tell
the story which, as your colored driver murmurs it, lends its poetry to
your course through the winding ways of the natural park, with their
outlooks upon the still waters of the bays and bayous around. You need
not otherwise believe all that your driver says, especially all he says
of the serpents which frequent these groves and climb the vines of the
scuppernong to share its fruit with the colored boys competing for the
grapes. Like these boys, the snake which loves the fruit most is black,
and sometimes in the imagination of the driver is of as lofty reach as
the vine itself.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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