A Confession of St. AugustineHowells, William Dean
History
A Confession of St. Augustine
Howells, William Dean
Saint Augustine (Fla.) -- Guidebooks
Otherwise our days went by in a summer succession the whole winter
through, but if now and then a day was unseasonably wintry, we justly
blamed our native North for it. I have tried, faithfully if not
successfully, to give some notion of the place and its resources for the
exile who has merely come away to escape care, and I hope I have not
exaggerated them. I have confessed that the drives were not so many as I
could wish, but the pleasant walks were more than I could take, and our
excursions in suburb or beyond always offered some interesting spectacle
or experience. There would be a house, left unoccupied by its owner for
the winter, which we would occupy for the moment at a merely nominal
rent; there was a certain ship’s carpenter whom we liked to see building
a small yacht in his back yard, remote from any of the surrounding
waters; and in a garden beside a house not otherwise memorable there was
the passion of a half-grown kitten for a hen which, as the cat rubbed
against the scandalized and indignant fowl, afforded a spectacle of
unrequited affection that might well have been studied for a painting on
the cover of a popular magazine; there were wide, wilding spaces which
the prosperity of former years had meant for house-lots, and there were
others where houses had once stood, and then fallen away, leaving
flowery tangles of bushes and briers behind them. But the great charm of
the town was in the town itself, and chiefly characteristic of it was
our own St. George Street, which, whether it followed the Maria Sanchez
away in cottages or bungalows of divers ideals to the border of the
far-reaching southward savannah, or led northward beyond the Plaza, was
somehow more Old World in effect than other thoroughfares of the town.
There were not merely the shops where everything you wanted or did not
want was offered you, but there was here and there a Spanish house,
sometimes tottering with age, but in one instance at least keeping its
ancient state of coquina walls flush with the street and with a stretch
of garden beside it, and on the street beyond it the appealing ruin of
like houses left by the last fire. Somewhat early in the season, the old
thoroughfare entered into a generous commercial rivalry with King
Street, and equipped itself with colored electric lamps strung overhead
in gay strands from side to side. By night or by day, with its little
shops and its cracking walls, and people walking up and down its middle
among the vehicles, it was very, very South-European. But it had places
where you could hardly keep from buying the latest magazines, or deny
the claim of your home-paper wherever your home was in the Middle West.
Promptly, twenty-four hours late, there were not only the New York
papers, but the Chicago, the Cleveland, the Cincinnati papers, with news
which had kept quite fresh on the long way south. But, above all, St.
George Street was the directest way to the old fort San Marco, and to
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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