A Decade of Italian Women, vol. 1 (of 2) — John Shaqi
A Decade of Italian Women, vol. 1 (of 2)Trollope, Thomas Adolphus
History
A Decade of Italian Women, vol. 1 (of 2)
Trollope, Thomas Adolphus
Italy -- Biography; Women -- Biography
The Dantescan pilgrim, who, among his first objects at Siena, runs
to visit this precious fountain, finds, not without a feeling of
disappointment, a square mass of heavy ugly brickwork, supported on
some three or four unornamented arches on each of its four sides.
Within is a large tank, also of brick, the sides of which rise about
two feet above the level of the soil; and this is perennially filled
by a cool and pure spring from the sandstone side of the mountain,
which there rises in a broken cliff immediately behind the ungraceful,
though classic building. Descending the steep street in search of this
poet-hallowed spot, with the Cathedral behind him, and St. Dominic's
church high on its peak above and in front of him, the visitor finds
that he is passing through a part of the city inhabited by the poorer
classes of its people. And near the bottom of the hill, and around the
fountain itself, it is manifest to more senses than one, that a colony
of tanners and dyers is still established on the same site which their
forefathers occupied, when Giacomo Benincasa was one of the guild.
The general aspect of this remote and low-lying corner of the city
is squalid and repulsive. Eyes and nose are alike offended by all
around them. And the stranger, who has been attracted thither by the
well-remembered name of "Fontebranda," hastens to reclimb his way to
the upper part of the town; probably unconscious, perhaps uncaring,
that within a few yards of him lies another object of pilgrimage,
classic after another fashion, and hallowed to the feelings of a far
more numerous body of devotees. For a little way up the hill, on the
left hand side of the poverty-stricken street, as one goes upwards,
among the miserable and filthy-looking skin-dressers' houses, is still
to be seen that of Giacomo Benincasa, in which his daughter Catherine,
the future Saint, was born, in the year 1347, and lived dining the
greater portion of her short career.
[Sidenote: CATHERINE'S BIRTH-PLACE.]
The veneration of her fellow citizens during the two centuries
which followed her death, has not permitted the dwelling to remain
altogether as it was when she inhabited it. The street front has been
sufficiently altered to indicate to any passenger, that it belongs to
some building of more note than the poor houses around it. Two stories
of a "loggia," or arcade, of dark brick, supported on little marble
columns,—four arches above, and four below,—run along the front of
the upper part of the building. On the ground-floor, a large portal,
like that of a chapel, such as in fact now occupies the entire basement
story, sufficiently shows that the building within is no longer a poor
dyer's habitation. On the side is a smaller door opening on a handsome
straight stone staircase, eight feet wide. By this entrance visitors
are admitted to gratify for an equal fee their Catholic devotion or
heretic curiosity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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