A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
History
A Flight in Spring: In the car Lucania from New York to the Pacific coast and back, during April and May, 1898
Knowles, J. Harris (John Harris)
Railroad travel -- United States; United States -- Description and travel
San Diego to Santa Barbara.--The Old Mission.--The Inner Cloister.--The
Afternoon Ride.--The Lady of the Blue Jeans.--Samarcand.
Our car moved off from San Diego in the early morning, before
breakfast. We enjoyed that meal _en route_ for Los Angeles, returning
there by the way we came. After a delay of a few hours in the lovely
city of rose-covered homes and embowering trees, we began our journey
to Santa Barbara, which we reached well on into the evening. Our course
brought us soon again to the ever-attractive shores of the great
tossing ocean, ever full of mystery, and provocative of brooding
thoughts.
When we arrived at Santa Barbara, it was toward evening, so tea and a
stroll filled up the close of our day of travel.
The next morning found us ready for a full day of what turned out to be
exquisite pleasure. A drive to the old Mission of Santa Barbara, with a
prolonged stay within the charmed shade of the old cloister, filled the
forenoon.
The antiquity of more than a hundred years seems an eternity in such a
new land as this, and hence the old mission seemed old indeed; but it
had the lustre of the dim past also, for our guide was a monk of St.
Francis, and his religious dress carried us back for over six centuries
to sunny Italy and the cradle of his order, Assisi, where St. Francis
dwelt.
Santa Barbara Mission is one of the best preserved of the many old
Spanish religious settlements yet remaining in Southern California, and
its style gives the norm of all the rest. It has a certain grandiose
air suggestive of Spanish magnificence, and reminds one of those
stately creatures one meets so often in Spain, who ask for alms with
high-toned elegance, and return thanks with the manners of a prince.
Such was Santa Barbara. Before the chief entrance of the chapel was a
grand flight of steps, with a generous platform capable of giving
standing-room to any church ceremonial or gathering of worshippers. It
was made up, it is true, of small mason work and stucco; but the effect
was there, and that effect was good. Entering the chapel, we found
ourselves in a stately, flat-roofed building of considerable height and
length. There were several altars at each side, and a number of
religious pictures, quite of the Murillo school, and a Pieta in
plaster, just as one finds Michael Angelo's great masterpiece in St.
Peter's. Beyond all, was the high altar, rather poor and shabby, but
pathetic, nevertheless, in its earnest purpose, with its hanging lamp
telling of the Sacramental Presence within the Tabernacle. The tomb of
the first Roman Catholic bishop of California is at the Epistle side of
the altar; and close by, on the outside, are other graves.
A lay brother took us all over the place. We rang for him at the
entrance door in the cloisters, and found him a sweet-faced, cheerful,
humble man, delighted to please us and be our guide.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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