A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
Chieng Kawng was our next point, a place I had visited with Dr. Vrooman
seventeen years before. The young lad who then was so much interested in
my repeating rifle was now governor, and came running out, bareheaded
and barefooted, to welcome us. In the interval I had met him from time
to time in Chiengmai, and he always begged that I would make him another
visit. I had been better than my word—I had come at last, and brought my
daughter, too. His brother, the second governor, had seen us in time to
don his audience dress, and he appeared more like a white man than any
one we had seen since the Taylors left us. He was ready to start on an
expedition to Mûang Sing, five days northward beyond the Mê Kōng. The
Prince of Nān had received permission from the King of Siam to repeople
that old province. Hence this expedition. The leader had three hundred
men, and gave me a cordial invitation to go as chaplain and physician!
After this, while the work was well under way, the territory was turned
over to France as the result of the long and troubled negotiations over
the boundary between Siam and French Indo-China.
The wives of both the governors could scarcely be content with my
daughter’s short stay. They would surely become Christians, if she would
remain one month to teach them. All I could do was to promise once more
to come again if possible. The promised visit was made two years later,
but then the “Nāi” was not along.
From there the only travelled route to Chieng Sên was by Chieng Rāi,
both hot and circuitous. The alternative was a blind, untravelled track
through the forest, made over forty years before, when Siam sent its
last unfortunate expedition against Keng Tung. Here was a tempting
chance to test the old proverb, Where there’s a will, there’s a way. The
governor procured a noted hunter to guide us. Every carrier and driver
and servant in the party carried his bush knife, and all promised to aid
if we only would take the cooler road. It was, however, literally making
in the forest “a highway for our God,” over which several missionary
tours have since been made. In the denser parts of the forest, we could
force our way only by cutting away branches and small trees, and at
times felling clumps of bamboo.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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