A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An AutobiographyMcGilvary, Daniel
History
A Half Century Among the Siamese and the Lāo: An Autobiography
McGilvary, Daniel
Lao (Tai people); Missions -- Lao (Tai people); Presbyterian Church in the U.S.A. -- Missions
We had a cool place for rest and worship on Sunday. Our hunter had not
promised to keep the Sabbath, and we were on his old hunting-grounds,
where game of all kinds abounded. At dawn he was off with his gun, and
we saw no more of him till sunset, when he appeared smiling, with some
choice cuts of beef hanging from the barrel of his gun. He had found and
followed, all day, a herd of wild cattle—the Kating—and succeeded in
killing one of them near our road, a mile or more ahead of our camp.
Though killed on Sunday, we ate it and asked no questions for
conscience’ sake. It was surely the most delicious beef we ever tasted.
We should have had a mutiny the next day, had we proposed to pass on
without stopping to save the meat. And what a huge creature it was. It
must have weighed nearly a ton. Our men extemporized frames over the
fire, and were busy cutting up the meat and drying it until late at
night. Next day each man went loaded with it to his utmost capacity.
What we could not carry away, the guide stored in the fork of a tree
against his return.
The journey through the forest was shorter and far more comfortable than
would have been the regular route. When next I travelled it, it had
become a public highway. And as long as I continued to journey that way,
it was known as the “Teacher’s Road.”
Chieng Sên was the limit of our trip. Before reaching it, we began to
hear rumours of war—that the city was blockaded, no one being permitted
to enter or depart. The country population had been called in to defend
the city, etc., etc. We were advised to return, but kept on. At the gate
the guard admitted us without difficulty.
The disturbance was the aftermath of the previous year’s tax-rebellion,
which, as we supposed, was completely ended before we left home. But a
portion of the insurgents had fled to Keng Tung, and, gathering there a
larger force, came south again as far as Mûang Fāng, where they were
either captured or again scattered. It was the fear that this lawless
band, on its retreat northward, might attack and plunder the city, that
caused the confusion. But the fugitives would have been fools to linger
about two weeks after their defeat, when they knew that both the army
behind them and the country in front of them would be on the alert for
their capture. The governor was delighted to see us, and we were able in
some degree to allay his fears. We were there, too, to speak a word of
comfort to our own flock, who, like the rest, had been called in to
protect the city. The panic gradually subsided, and the people returned
to their homes. Owing in part to the unsettled condition of the country,
we did not remain long in Chieng Sên; but long enough to visit in their
homes every Christian family save one, and to have a delightful
communion season with the church on Sunday.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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