Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
“The fondness of ladies for painting their faces and exposing the bosom
was severely reprimanded by the divines and satirists at the early
part of the 17th century. While a ruff or band of immoderate size
stretched forth from the neck, the front of the dress was cut away
immediately beneath it, nearly to the waist, which made the fashion
more noticeable, as all the other part of the bust was over-clothed,
while the bosom was perfectly bare.”
Masks were worn by ladies on all public occasions, and it was
considered a sign of impropriety to appear without them (Fig. 2).
The ruff went out of fashion during this reign, because Mrs. Annie
Turner, a starcher of ruffs, who was executed for poisoning Sir Thomas
Overbury, wore a starched ruff of the approved colour at her execution.
_Charles I. and the Commonwealth._
There was little change in female costume at the beginning of this
reign. The French hood and farthingale were still worn, and the
high-crowned hat was generally worn by countrywomen and the wives of
the citizens (Figs. 5 and 7), especially when they belonged to the
Puritanical party. In the course of the reign of Charles, there came
a change in female costume, contemporary with and as elegant as that
which took place in the male costume.
The hood, the farthingale, and the starched bands disappeared. A good
specimen of the new costume is given in Fig. 1, after Hollar. The
dress is full, and falls gracefully about the body; the bodice is
tight-fitting, and the sleeves are rich and full, but gathered at the
wrist, and there is an elegant falling collar edged with lace.
The long petticoat was generally displayed in a certain measure by the
robe, which was, at times, quite gathered up at the waist.
As a matter of course, the ladies of the Republican party, following
the example set by their men folk, dressed very soberly, some of them
adhering to old-fashioned articles of dress, such as the hood and
high-crowned hat. A fashion introduced in the previous reign was that
of wearing _patches_ on the face. Fig. 3 gives a curious specimen of
this fashionable absurdity. It excited the derision of the satirists,
who repeatedly decried it in their works; but it continued in fashion
for a long time--until the end of the 17th century.
The usual costume of a Puritan woman is shown in Fig. 5.
The female costume in the later years of the Protectorate is
illustrated by Fig. 6 from the monumental effigy of Elizabeth
Sacheverell, 1657 A.D., in Morley Church, Derbyshire.
_Charles II._
With the Restoration, England threw off the sober, kill-joy aspect
that it had worn, and the Court, with its gaiety, set the fashion in a
studied negligence and elegant déshabille.
The glossy ringlets of the ladies, escaping from a simple bandeau of
pearls, or adorned by a single rose, fell in graceful profusion upon
bare, snowy necks, and the arms were bare to the elbow.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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