Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
This was carried to such an extent that a book was published entitled
“A Just and Seasonable Reprehension of Naked Breasts and Shoulders,”
with a preface by Richard Baxter.
The richest and brightest materials were employed for the dresses and
petticoats. The costume of this period is very well known from the
portraits of the ladies of the Court by Sir Peter Lely (see Pl. 49,
Fig. 2).
_James II. and William III._
There was no change in female costume during the short and unfortunate
reign of James, but when William and Mary ascended the throne, they and
their entourage brought with them, as might be expected, a number of
Dutch fashions. The very low-necked dresses were replaced by those with
a formal stomacher.
The elegant full sleeve gave place to a tight one, with a cuff above
the elbow, from which fell a profusion of lace in the form of ruffles.
The hair, which had been allowed to hang loose in ringlets, was now
“put up” and combed from the forehead like a rising billow, and
surmounted by piles of ribbons and lace. This was called the “commode,”
and was sometimes covered by a lace scarf or veil that streamed down
each side of the coiffure.
Stiff stays, tightly laced over the stomacher and very long in the
waist, became fashionable, so that a lady’s body, from the shoulder to
the hips, looked like the letter V.
[Illustration: PLATE 48.
(Fig. 1): A lady of the Court of Charles I. (1643), after the
engraver Hollar, wearing a lace collar on a low cut neck.
The robe is not draped, and the hair is combed tightly back
from the forehead and gathered in close rolls behind, being
allowed to flow freely at the sides. (Fig. 2): A lady wearing
a mask of the time of James I., from a contemporary print. She
holds a folding bone fan in her right hand, and attached to
her girdle, hanging over the farthingale, are a looking glass,
a ball-shaped pomander (containing perfumes) with tassels,
and a toilet case, probably of silver. In the Court of James
I., which was very dissolute, the mask was worn on all public
occasions by ladies; and those who appeared without it were
called “bare-faced.” (Fig. 3): A lady wearing patches, from a
woodcut in Bulwer’s “Artificial Changeling,” 1650. The custom
of patching was introduced in the reign of James I. A coach,
with a coachman and two horses, with postillions, appears
on her forehead; both sides of her face have crescents upon
them; a star is on one side of her mouth, and a plain circular
patch on her chin. (Fig. 4): A lady of Charles I.’s reign,
showing the arrangement of the hair, with a coif covering
the head. (From a tomb in Morley Church, Derbyshire.) (Fig.
5): An English tradesman’s wife, 1649, after Hollar. (Fig.
6): Dress of an elderly lady of the middle class during the
Protectorate. She wears a close hood and band, with ample
gown. (From the effigy of Elizabeth Sacheverell, 1657, in
Morley Church, Derbyshire.) (Fig. 7): A Puritan woman, 1646,
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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