In 1789 the hair began to be worn “frizzled” in a close bush all over, with pendant curls on the back and shoulders (Fig. 5). The high bonnet of the French peasants was introduced and was worn trimmed with lace, so that it hung over the face like an extinguisher. The puffed out chest, the little frilled jacket and tight sleeves, were also very characteristic of this time. A curious fashion came in during 1783, in the use of straw as an ornament of dress. It was used to decorate everything, from the cap to the shoe buckle, and naturally this was the era of straw bonnets. In 1794 extremely short waists became fashionable; that is to say, the waists of dresses were carried up to the armpits. In derision of this fashion, a song commencing, “Shepherds, I have lost my love, Have you seen my Anna?” was parodied thus by a wag: “Shepherds, I have lost my waist, Have you seen my body?” The gown was worn without a hoop, and fell in straight, loose folds to the feet. The fashion of powdering the hair fell into disuse, for Mr. Pitt, computing that it would bring in a revenue of about £210,000, put a tax upon powdering the hair, and almost everyone, to his disgust, abandoned the fashion. Although the hoop had been discarded in private life for some time, it appeared regularly at Court in as great state as ever (Fig. 7). It was decorated with ribbons, cords, tassels, and bunches of flowers; the waist was pinched, and the head overloaded with feathers, jewels, ribbons, and ornaments--altogether a most uncomfortable attire. Many of the fashions at the end of George’s reign became tasteful and simple, and illustrations of them will be seen in the portraits, engravings, and caricatures of the time. [Illustration: PLATE 54. (Fig. 1): Costume of a lady in 1775, from an illustration in the “Ladies’ Magazine” of that year (taken from a drawing made at Ranelagh). (Fig. 2): A bonnet “of unassisted British taste” of the time of the Regency, 1811-1820. (Fig. 3): A head-dress about 1768, from a curious work written by a hairdresser named Stewart, under the astounding title of “Plocacosmos, or the Whole Art of Hair Dressing.” It is a large but light compound of gauze, wire, ribbons and flowers, sloping over the forehead. (Fig. 4): A lady’s fashionable riding costume in August, 1786 (from a print). (Fig. 5): A lady of fashion in 1789 (from a print dated 1790). (Fig. 6): Head-dress of a lady, 1766 (in Stewart’s “Plocacosmos”). (Fig. 7): A lady in Court dress in 1796. The hoop petticoat, though fallen into disuse generally, was retained in the Court dress.] THE MONASTIC ORDERS. [Illustration: Plate 55.]