Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
The latter “did not wait for the royal sanction to their flippancies,
and their taste or want of taste ran riot during this reign to an
extent that equalled the absurdities of any previous period, and which
makes the history of fashion during that time more varied than that of
any similar length of time.”
At the commencement of the reign, ladies’ dresses were generally simple
enough; but about 1763 the fashion came over from France of dressing
the hair by curling and crisping it, and raising it by adding pomatum,
upon a foundation of “many a good pound of wool,” into such an erection
“that my lady is dressed for three months at least, during which time
it is not in her power to comb her head.” So enormous were these
head-dresses, that a satirist said: “Our fine ladies remind me of an
apple stuck on the point of a small skewer.” A sign of the times was
the number of works written by hairdressers, which appeared with many
illustrations, describing the various styles of these monstrosities of
hairdressing, “for in those days hairdressers were great men.”
When the Maccaroni costume was adopted in 1772 by some of the dandies,
many ladies followed suit with a costume on similar, extravagant lines,
particularly copying the enormous toupée.
In 1775 another fashion came in, depicted in Fig. 1. The head-dress is
called a half-moon toupée, combed up from the forehead, large curls
being made at the sides, and a plume of feathers surmounting the
structure. Round the neck is a simple ribbon. The gown is high behind
at the neck, and low in front, with a large bunch of flowers stuck in
the breast, and the body is tightly confined in stays strengthened with
steel busks. The sleeves reach to the elbow; long gloves are worn, and
the fan is constantly displayed.
The gown is open from the waist, and gathered in festoons at the
sides, the edges being ornamented with silk ribbons in puffs, forming
a diamond shaped pattern and edged with lace. The petticoat, which
is displayed by the open gown, is similarly decorated, and small,
high-heeled shoes with rosettes complete the dress.
The head-dress continued as monstrous as ever until, in 1782, it
reached the enormous size shown in Fig. 6. One hairdresser, on
completing his task, told the lady that “heads, when properly dressed,
kept for three weeks”; that they would not “keep” longer may be
seen from the many recipes given for the destruction of the insects
which bred in the flour and pomatum so liberally bestowed upon the
head-dresses. Needless to say, these structures gave unlimited
materials to the many satirists and caricaturists of the period. About
1786 the heads began to lower, and the hair was allowed to stream down
the back, a fashion attributed to the portrait painters, led by Sir
Joshua Reynolds. Hats with enormous brims were worn of the style shown
in Fig. 4, which represents a lady in a fashionable riding dress of
1786.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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