Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
Besides these four principal Orders of mendicant Friars, there were
a number of lesser Orders, the chief being the _Crutched Friars_ (so
called because they wore a red cross on the breast and back of their
habit); _Friars of the Sack_, who wore a plain, bag-like garment
of coarse cloth or sacking; and _Friars of the Holy Trinity_, or
_Trinitarians_, who made part of their work the ransoming of Christians
captured by the infidels.
All the minor mendicant Orders (excepting the four great Orders) were
suppressed 1370 A.D.
THE CANONS.
A great monastic family was known under the name of Augustinians, from
St. Augustine, Bishop of Hippo, who, it is said, established monastic
communities in Africa, and gave them a “rule,” or method of life.
In the middle of the ninth century all the clergy--priests, canons,
clerks, etc.--who had not entered the monastic ranks were incorporated
into one great Order to observe the rule of St. Augustine. The Canons
Regular, as they were called, were the clergy of Cathedral and
Collegiate Churches, living in a community on the monastic model. They
wore during divine service a surplice, and a fur tippet or _almuce_
over a long black cassock, and a four-square cap called a _baret_ or
_biretta_.
They had much more liberty than the monks. A writer in the thirteenth
century says: “Among them one is well shod, well clothed, and well fed.
They go out when they like, mix with the world, and talk at table.”
There were several classes of them in England known as--
1. Augustinian Canons.
2. Premonstratensian Canons.
3. Gilbertine Canons.
The _Augustinian_, Austin or Black Canons (Pl. 57, Fig. 3), so
called from the habit of the order, were found in Europe after the
twelfth century, and were very popular in England. At the time of
the Dissolution they had about 170 houses in England, two of the
Abbeys--Waltham Cross and Cirencester--being governed by mitred abbots.
The _Premonstratensian_ Canons were named after Prémontré, in France,
where they originated in the twelfth century. They wore a white habit,
and were known as White Canons. Welbeck Abbey was the chief house in
England, and at the Dissolution there were 34 houses of the Order in
this country.
The _Gilbertine Canons_ were founded by St. Gilbert, Rector of
Sempringham. in the twelfth century. The Order was one for both men
and women, and in the double monasteries the canons and nuns lived in
separate houses, having no communion. The men wore a black habit with a
white cloak, and a hood lined with lamb’s wool.
The women were in black, with a white cap. The Order had 26
establishments in England at the Dissolution.
[Illustration: PLATE 57.
(Fig. 1): A Franciscan Friar. (Fig. 2): A Carmelite Friar.
(Fig. 3): An Augustinian Canon.]
MILITARY MONASTIC ORDERS.
(Plate 58.)
The military Orders, consisting of men who combined the religious
duties of monks and the military exercises of knights, were the Knights
Hospitallers and the Knights Templars.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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