Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
As may be imagined, much strife arose between these wandering preachers
and the parochial clergy. There were four Orders of Friars: Dominicans,
Franciscans, Carmelites, and Augustines. They were called Friars
because, out of humility, their founders would not have them called
Father, like the monks, but simply Brother (Frater, Frère, Friar). The
Dominicans and Franciscans came into being at the beginning of the 13th
century.
Dominic, an Augustinian Canon and a Spaniard of noble birth, conceived
the idea of founding an Order of men who should spend their lives in
preaching, and at the same time St. Francis of Assisi, the son of a
rich Italian merchant, was inspired with a similar idea. Dominic and
Francis met at Rome 1216 A.D., but, though an attempt was made to
combine their movements, it was found impossible to do so.
Each adopted the Augustian rule, and each required that his followers
should have no property, either personally or as a corporate body. They
were to work for a livelihood or live on alms.
The Dominicans were learned, energetic and dogmatic; the Franciscans
retained somewhat of the character of the pious, ardent enthusiast,
from whom they took their name. The Dominicans were called Black
Friars, as their habit consisted of a white tunic with white girdle,
and a white scapulary with a _black_ mantle, hood and shoes. (Pl. 58,
Fig. 3.)
The Dominican nuns wore the same dress, with a white veil.
The Franciscans were called Grey Friars, from the colour of their
habits, or Cordeliers, from the knotted rope which formed their
characteristic girdle.
Their habit was originally a grey tunic, with long, loose sleeves, a
knotted cord for a girdle, and a black hood. The feet were always bare,
or only protected by sandals. In the 15th century, the colour of the
habit was changed to dark brown. (Pl. 57, Fig. 1.)
The Franciscans were first introduced into England at Canterbury, 1223
A.D., and there were sixty-five houses of the Order in England, besides
four houses of minoresses.
While the Dominicans retained their unity of organisation, the
Franciscans divided into several branches, under the names of
Minorites, Capuchins, Minims, Observants, Recollets, &c.
The _Carmelites_ took their name from Mount Carmel, where they
originated.
They were driven from Palestine by the Saracens in the 12th century,
and then spread into Europe, coming to England about 1245 A.D.
Their dress was a white frock over a dark blue tunic, and they were
hence known as White Friars. In the 16th century they had about forty
houses in this country. (Pl. 57, Fig. 2.)
_The Augustines_, or _Austin Friars_, were founded in the middle of
the 13th century, consisting originally of hermits and solitaries, who
lived under no rule at all. They were incorporated by Pope Innocent IV.
into a new Order with the above name.
They wore a black gown with board sleeves, girdled with a leather belt,
and a black cloth hood. They had thirty-two houses in England.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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