Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
gown is abbreviated to the hips; the sleeves are wide, and
the chausses are tight-fitting to the limbs; while the shoes
have long pointed toes. He wears a jewelled circlet around the
forehead. (Figs. 7, 8, 9): Costumes of ladies in the reign of
Richard II. (Fig. 7): Shows the sideless garment faced with
fur, terminating in long, full skirts worn over the kirtle (or
loose gown). (Fig. 9): Shows a lady with the outer sleeveless
garment, so long as to be gathered up and carried under the
arm. (Figs. 10, 11, 12): Various forms of head-dresses of men
of the reign of Richard II. (Fig. 13): A singular kind of hood
covering the head and shoulders, reaching to the elbows, and
having pointed ends spreading out at each side. This was worn
in the time of Edward III.]
MAIL ARMOUR.
Pure mail armour, _i.e._, armour worn without additional defence over
the mail but the heaume, was in use from 1150 A.D. to 1300 A.D., but
its use was finally discontinued about 1350 A.D.
There were several kinds of mail, and different ways of representing it
on effigies, brasses, etc., _viz._:
(_a_) Mail apparently formed of rings or _mailles_, sewn on
to a leather garment by the edge only, and arranged so that
one ring overlapped the next.
(_b_) Mail formed of rows of rings sewn on strips of linen
or leather, the strips being then applied to the garment.
(_c_) Mail formed of rings interlocked with each other
(chain mail).
(_d_) Mail called “banded mail,” in which double lines
separated each row of links.
(_e_) Armour formed of rings or small discs of metal sewn
flat all over the garment.
Another similar kind of armour was formed of scales or overlapping
plates of leather or metal, fastened to a leather or linen foundation.
The chain mail or armour formed of interlacing rings was finally
adopted throughout Western Europe, being copied from that of the
Saracens in the Crusades.
We have not many contemporary illustrations of the armour and knightly
apparel in the period between the Norman Conquest and the Edwardian era.
There are but few illuminated MSS.; sepulchral monuments are not
numerous, and the valuable series of monumental brasses had not begun.
The plaited or mail shirt of the Early Norman was superseded by a
stout, quilted tunic, also called the _hauberk_, reaching to the knees
and with short sleeves, and a _coif_ or hood of mail on the head.
Frequently a metal breastplate or _plastron-de-fer_, and a steel cap
or _chapel-de-fer_, were worn under the mail. Sometimes over the
coif a close-fitting iron helmet was worn. The hauberk sleeves were
lengthened, covering the hands as mittens or fingerless gloves of
strong leather strengthened by mail or pieces of metal.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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