Costume -- Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History; Great Britain -- History -- Pictorial works
the church was enlarged in the fourteenth century this piscina
was placed near the altar. The upper part was formed of
portions of two small Norman arches taken from two dismantled
windows. These were roughly trimmed to form a pointed arch to
be in keeping with the “pointed” style. (After H.F.)]
TUDOR PERIOD.
MALE COSTUMES.
_Henry VII._
The male costumes of Henry VII.’s reign were not brilliant, and Henry
himself, on account of his miserly disposition, was very soberly
dressed. His conduct in this respect naturally influenced the whole
nation, though there were exquisites at this time, as there always will
be, who dressed in a very extreme fashion. Strutt says that at the end
of the fifteenth century “the dress of the English was exceedingly
fantastical and absurd, insomuch that it was even difficult to
distinguish one sex from another”; but this referred more particularly
to the dress of the nobility and gentry.
The custom of “slashing” came into fashion at this time, and was
probably due to the desire to show the rich lining or embroidered shirt
underneath. The hood fell into disuse, and broad felt hats or caps and
bonnets of velvet and fur with large, drooping plumes became general
“among the great and gay.” A square cap peculiar to this period is
still shown on the heads of the knaves on our playing cards.
A long gown, which was of varying proportions, girdled at the waist,
having wide sleeves, a lining of darker cloth, and open at the upper
part to display the inner vest, was a common and a dignified costume.
(Pl. 42, Fig. 1.)
Embroidery was restricted to the under garments, the shirts being often
decorated on the collars and wrists with needlework. The costumes of
private gentlemen were plain and unobtrusive in their character. (Fig.
2.)
The pointed toes of the shoes gave place to very broad ones, termed
_sabbatons_ (Figs. 10 and 11), and the hair was worn long and flowing,
though the face was still closely shaven, moustaches and beards being
worn by soldiers and old men only.
Chausses, which had been generally worn up to this period, began to
give place to the separate breeches and hose.
_Henry VIII._
The costume of the gentry of the reign of Henry VIII. consisted of a
full-skirted and girdled jacket or doublet, with large sleeves at the
wrist, over which was worn a short, full coat or cloak with loose,
hanging sleeves and a broad collar or cape of fur--a brimmed cap,
jewelled and bordered with ostrich feathers--stockings, and square-toed
shoes, with ruffles at the wrist. An embroidered stomacher or vest was
sometimes worn over the shirt and under the doublet. The skirts of the
latter reached sometimes to the knees, but were often made shorter.
On the whole, there were no great innovations of male costume made
during the actual reign of Henry VIII., for the same fashions appear to
have continued during its whole extent.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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