A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The lively Frenchman found plenty of native writers to reëcho him.
Champagne sparkles in all the plays of the Restoration, and seems the
fitting inspiration of their matchless briskness of dialogue. The
Millamours and Bellairs, the Carelesses and Rangers, the Sir Joskin
Jolleys and Sir Fopling Flutters, the _beaux_ of the Mall and the
rakes of the Mulberry and New Spring Gardens, the gay frequenters of
the Folly on the Thames and the _habitués_ of Pontack's Ordinary, whom
the contemporary dramatists transferred bodily to the stage of the
King's or the Duke's, are constantly tossing off bumpers of it. Their
lives would seem to have been one continuous round of love-making and
Champagne-drinking, to judge from the following 'catch,' sung by four
merry gentlemen at a period when, according to Redding, ten thousand
tuns of French wine were annually pouring into England:
'The pleasures of love and the joys of good wine,
To perfect our happiness, wisely we join;
We to Beauty all day
Give the sovereign sway,
And her favourite nymphs devoutly obey.
At the plays we are constantly making our court,
And when they are ended we follow the sport
To the Mall and the Park,
Where we love till 'tis dark;
Then sparkling Champaign[272]
Puts an end to their reign;
It quickly recovers
Poor languishing lovers;
Makes us frolic and gay, and drowns all our sorrow;
But, alas, we relapse again on the morrow.'[273]
[Illustration]
We learn, indeed, that under the influence of
'powerful Champaign, as they call it, a spark can no more refrain
running into love than a drunken country vicar can avoid disputing
of religion when his patron's ale grows stronger than his
reason.'[274]
Probably it was owing to this quality of inspiring a tendency to
amativeness that ladies were sometimes expected to join in such
potations.
'She's no mistress of mine
That drinks not her wine,
Or frowns at my friends' drinking motions;
If my heart thou wouldst gain,
Drink thy flask of Champaign;
'Twill serve thee for paint and love-potions,'[275]
is the sentiment enunciated in chorus by four half-fuddled topers in
the New Spring Gardens. At the Mulberry Gardens we find that
'Jack Wildish sent for a dozen more Champaign, and a brace of
such girls as we should have made honourable love to in any other
place.'[276]
With such manners and customs can we wonder at one gentleman
complaining how another
'came where I was last night roaring drunk; swore--d--him!--he had
been with my Lord Such-a-one, and had swallowed three quarts of
Champaign for his share;'[277]
or have any call to feel surprised that such boon companions should
'come, as the sparks do, to a playhouse too full of Champaign,
venting very much noise and very little wit'?[278]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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