A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Champagne remains ignored in such books as the _Mystery of
Vintners_;[279] but although technical works may be silent, the poets
vie with the dramatists in extolling its exhilarating effects--effects
surely perceptible in the witty, careless, graceful verse with which
the epoch abounds. John Oldham--who, after passing his early years as a
schoolmaster, was lured into becoming, in the words of his biographer,
'at once a votary of Bacchus and Venus' by the patronage of Rochester,
Dorset, and Sedley in 1681, and who realised the fable of the pot of
brass and the pot of earthenware by dying from the effects of the
company he kept two years later--has given a list of the wines in vogue
in his day:
'Let wealthy merchants, when they dine,
Run o'er their witty names of wine:
Their chests of Florence and their Mont Alchine,
Their Mants, Champaigns, Chablees, Frontiniacks tell;
Their aums of Hock, of Backrag [Bacharach] and Mosell.'[280]
He gives the wines of our 'sweet enemy' a high position, too, in his
_Dithyrambick, spoken by a Drunkard_, who is made to exclaim,
'Were France the next, this round Bordeau shall swallow,
Champaign, Langou [L'Anjou], and Burgundy shall follow.'[281]
Butler makes the hero of his immortal satire prepared to follow the old
Roman fashion with regard to his lady's name, and to
'Drink ev'ry letter on't in stum,
And make it brisk Champaign become;'[282]
and speaks of routed forces having
'Recovered many a desperate campaign
With Bordeaux, Burgundy, and Champaign.'[283]
And Sir Charles Sedley, in an apologue written towards the close of
the century, tells how a doctor of his day was sorely troubled by the
unreasonable lives led by his patients, until
'One day he called 'em all together,
And, one by one, he asked 'em whether
It were not better by good diet
To keep the blood and humours quiet,
With toast and ale to cool their brains
Than nightly fire 'em with Champains.'[284]
In 1679 the peculiar ideas of political economy then prevailing led
to a formal prohibition of the importation of French wines, and the
consequent substitution in their place of those of Portugal. One can
imagine the consternation of the 'beaux' and 'sparks' at this fatal
decree, and the satisfaction of the few vintners whose cellars chanced
to be well stored with the forbidden vintages of France--with
'The Claret smooth, red as the lips we press
In sparkling fancy while we drain the bowl;
The mellow-tasted Burgundy, and, quick
As is the wit it gives, the gay Champagne.'[285]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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