A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The wine known as Sillery sec is a full, dry, pleasant-flavoured,
and somewhat spirituous amber-coloured wine. Very little of it is
made nowadays, and most that is comes from the adjacent vineyards of
Verzenay and Mailly, and is principally reserved by the growers for
their own consumption. One of these candidly admitted that the old
reputation of the wine had exploded, and that better white Bordeaux
and Burgundy wines were to be obtained for less money. In making dry
Sillery, which locally is esteemed as a valuable tonic, it is essential
that the grapes should be subjected to only slight pressure; while to
have it in perfection it is equally essential that the wine should be
kept for ten years in the wood according to some, and eight years in
bottle according to others, to which circumstance its high price is in
all probability to be attributed. In course of time it forms a deposit,
and has the disadvantage common to all the finer still wines of the
Champagne district of not travelling well.
Beyond Sillery the vineyards of Verzenay unfold themselves, spreading
over the extensive slopes and stretching to the summit of the steep
height to the right, where a windmill or two are perched. Everywhere
the vintagers are busy detaching the grapes with their little
hook-shaped _serpettes_, the women all wearing projecting close-fitting
bonnets, as though needlessly careful of their anything but blonde
complexions. Long carts laden with baskets of grapes block the narrow
roads, and donkeys, duly muzzled, with panniers slung across their
backs, toil up and down the steeper slopes. Half-way up the principal
hill, backed by a dense wood and furrowed with deep trenches, whence
soil has been removed for manuring the vineyards, is the village of
Verzenay--where in the Middle Ages the Archbishop of Reims had a
fief--overlooking a veritable sea of vines. Rising up in front of the
old gray cottages, encompassed by orchards or gardens, are the white
walls and long red roofs of the vendangeoirs belonging to the great
Champagne houses--Moët & Chandon, Clicquot, G. H. Mumm, Roederer, Deutz
& Geldermann, and others--all teeming with bustle and excitement, and
with the vines almost reaching to their very doors. Messrs. Moët &
Chandon have as many as eight presses in full work, and own no less
than 120 acres of vines on the neighbouring slopes, besides the Clos de
Romont--in the direction of Sillery, and yielding a wine of the Sillery
type--belonging to M. Raoul Chandon. Verzenay ranks as a _premier cru_,
and for three years in succession--1872, 3, and 4--its wines fetched a
higher price than either those of Ay or Bouzy. In 1873 the _vin brut_
commanded the exceptionally large sum of 1050 francs the hogshead of
44 gallons. All the inhabitants of Verzenay are vine-proprietors, and
several million francs are annually received by them for the produce
of their vineyards from the manufacturers of Champagne. The wine of
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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