A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
But the crowning glory of the Benedictine's long and useful life
remains to be told. He succeeded in obtaining for the first time in
the Champagne a perfectly white wine from black grapes, that hitherto
made having been gray, or of a pale-straw colour.[99] Moreover, by some
happy accident, or by a series of experimental researches--for the
exact facts of the discovery are lost for ever--he hit upon a method
of regulating the tendency of the wines of this region to effervesce,
and by paying regard to the epoch of bottling, finally succeeded in
producing a perfectly sparkling wine, that burst forth from the bottle
and overflowed the glass, and was twice as dainty to the palate, and
twice as exhilarating in its effects, as the ordinary wine of the
Champagne. A correlative result of his investigations was the present
system of corking bottles, a wisp of tow dipped in oil being the sole
stopper in use prior to his time.[100] To him, too, we owe not only
sparkling Champagne itself, but the proper kind of glass to drink it
out of. The tall, thin, tapering _flute_ was adopted, if not invented,
by him, in order, as he said, that he might watch the dance of the
sparkling atoms.[101] The exact date of Dom Perignon's discovery of
sparkling wine seems to be wrapped in much the same obscurity as
are the various attendant circumstances. It was certainly prior to
the close of the seventeenth century; as the author of an anonymous
treatise, printed at Reims in 1718, remarked that for more than twenty
years past the taste of the French had inclined towards sparkling
wines, which they had 'frantically adored,' though during the last
three years they had grown a little out of conceit with them.[102] This
would place it at 1697, at the latest.
[Illustration]
To Dom Perignon the abbey's well-stocked cellar was a far cheerfuller
place than the cell. Nothing delighted him more than
'To come down among this brotherhood
Dwelling for ever underground,
Silent, contemplative, round, and sound;
Each one old and brown with mould,
But filled to the lips with the ardour of youth,
With the latent power and love of truth,
And with virtues fervent and manifold.'
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