A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Ever busy among his vats and presses, barrels and bottles, Perignon
found out a method of clearing wine, so as to preserve it perfectly
limpid and free from all deposit, without being obliged, like all who
sought to rival him in its production, to _dépoter_ the bottles--that
is, to decant their contents into fresh ones.[103] This secret, which
helped to maintain the high reputation of the wine of Hautvillers when
the manufacture of sparkling Champagne had extended throughout the
district, he guarded even better than he was able to guard the apple of
his eye. At his death, in 1715, he revealed it only to his successor,
Frère Philippe, who, after holding sway over vat and vineyard for
fifty years, died in 1765, imparting it with his latest breath to
Frère André Lemaire. Revoked perforce from his functions by the French
Revolution, he in turn, before his death about 1795, communicated it
to Dom Grossart, who exults over the fact that whilst the greatest
Champagne merchants were obliged to _dépoter_, the monks of Hautvillers
had never done so.[104] Dom Grossart, who had counted the Moëts amongst
his customers, died in his turn without making any sign, so that the
secret of Perignon perished with him. Prior to that event, however,
the present system of _dégorgeage_ was discovered, and eventually
_dépotage_ was no longer practised.[105]
The material result of Dom Perignon's labours was such that one of the
presses of the abbey bore this inscription: 'M. de Fourville, abbot of
this abbey, had me constructed in the year 1694, and that same year
sold his wine at a thousand livres the queue.'[106] Their moral effect
was so complete that his name became identified with the wine of the
abbey. People asked for the wine of Perignon, till they forgot that
he was a man and not a vineyard,[107] and within a year of his death
his name figures amongst a list of the wine-producing slopes of the
Champagne.[108] His reputation has outlasted the walls within which he
carried on his labours, and his merits are thus recorded, in conventual
Latin of the period, on a black-marble slab still to be seen within the
altar-steps of the abbey-church of Hautvillers.[109]
[Illustration:
D . O . M .
HIC JACET DOM.
PETRUS PERIGNON
HUJUS MÑRII PER
ANNOS QUADGINTA
SEPTEM CELLERARIUS
QUI RE FAMILLIARI
SUMMA CUM
LAUDE ADMINISTRATA
VIRTUTIBUS
PLENUS PATERNO
QUE JMPRIMIS IN
PAUPERIS AMORE
OBIIT ÆTATIS 77^o.
ANNO 1715
REQUISCAT IN PACE
AMEN]
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