A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Despite the success achieved by the _vin mousseux_, merchants, owing to
the excessive breakage of the bottles--of the cause of which and of the
means of stopping it they were equally ignorant--often saw their hopes
of fortune fly away with the splintered fragments of the shattered
glass.[194] The following passages from the /MS./ notes of the founder
of one of the first houses of Reims, written in 1770, would imply
some knowledge of the fact that a _liquoreux_ wine was likely to lead
to a destructive _casse_, and also that the importance of the trade
in sparkling Champagne was far greater during the first half of the
eighteenth century than is usually supposed.[195] The /MS./ in question
says: 'In 1746 I bottled 6000 bottles of a very _liquoreux_ wine; I
had only 120 bottles of it left. In 1747 there was less _liqueur_; the
breakage amounted to one-third of the whole. In 1748 it was more vinous
and less _liquoreux_; the breakage was only a sixth. In 1759 it was
more _rond_, and the breakage was only a tenth. In 1766 the wine of
Jacquelet was very _rond_; the breakage was only a twentieth.'[196]
The writer then proceeds to recommend, as a means of preventing
breakage, that the wine should not be bottled till the _liqueur_
had almost disappeared, and that, if necessary, fermentation should
be checked by well beating the wine. But as at that epoch there was
really no means of effectually testing this disappearance, and as the
beating theory was an utterly fallacious one, the followers of his
precepts remained with the sad alternative of producing in too many
instances either _mousses folles_ and their inevitable accompaniment of
disastrous breakage, or wine so mature as to be incapable of continuing
its fermentation in bottle, and producing _mousse_ at all.[197]
It is therefore evident that much of the sparkling wine drunk at the
commencement of the last century was what we should call _crémant_, or,
as it was then styled, _sablant_,[198] as otherwise the breakage would
have been something frightful. Bertin du Rocheret plainly indicates
after 1730 a difference between the fiercely frothing kinds, to which
the term _saute bouchon_ or pop-cork was applied, and wine that was
merely _mousseux_.[199] The price of the former is the highest, ranging
up to 3 livres 6 sols, whilst that of the _bon mousseux_ does not
exceed 50 sols, the difference in the two being no doubt based to a
certain extent on the loss by breakage.[200]
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