A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
Hence, too, a partiality for weak sour growths for making _vin
mousseux_, as, although science could give no reason, experience
showed that with these the breakage would be less than with those of a
saccharine nature.[201] Thus Bertin writes in 1744 that the vineyards
of Avize, planted for the most part in 1715, and almost entirely with
white grapes, only produced a thin wine, with a tartness that caused
it to be one of the least esteemed in the district; but that 'since
the mania for the _saute bouchon_, that abominable beverage, which has
become yet more loathsome from an insupportable acidity,' the Avize
wines had increased in value eightfold.[202] To this acidity the Abbé
Bignon refers in a poem of 1741, in which, protesting against the
partiality for violently effervescing wines, he says:
'Your palate is a cripple
Worn out by fiery tipple,
Or else it would prefer juice
Of grapes to fizzing verjuice.'[203]
This serves to explain the preference so long accorded by _gourmets_ to
the finer _non mousseux_ wines, full of aroma and flavour, and often
sugary and _liquoreux_, but looked upon by the general public up to the
close of the eighteenth century as inferior to those which were sharp,
strong, and even sourish, but which effervesced well.[204] Lingering
relics of prejudice against sparkling wine existed as late as 1782,
when that conscientious observer, Legrand d'Aussy, remarked that since
it had been known that sparkling wines were green wines bottled in
spring, when the universal revolution of Nature causes them to enter
into fermentation, they had not been so much esteemed, the _gourmets_
of that day preferring those which did not sparkle.[205]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account