A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of FranceVizetelly, Henry
History
A History of Champagne, with Notes on the Other Sparkling Wines of France
Vizetelly, Henry
Champagne (Wine) -- History; Wine and wine making -- France
The necessity of ridding the wine of the deposit which deprived it of
its limpidity was, however, recognised later on. At first no other
method suggested itself, excepting to _dépoter_ it--that is, to decant
it into another bottle; a plan fraught, in the case of sparkling wines,
with several disadvantages. At the commencement of the present century,
however, the system of _dégorgeage_ was substituted.[213] As at first
practised, each bottle was held neck downwards, and either shaken
or tapped at the bottom to detach the sediment, the operation being
constantly repeated until the deposit had settled in the neck, when it
was driven out by the force of the explosion which followed upon the
removal of the cork. Somewhat later the plan now followed of placing
the bottles in sloping racks and turning them every day was adopted, to
the great saving of time and labour. Its discovery has been popularly
attributed to Madame Clicquot; but the fact is the suggestion emanated
from a person in her employ named Müller. The idea is said to have
simultaneously occurred to a workman in Marizet's house of the name of
Thommassin.
Although the advent of such a delectable beverage as sparkling
Champagne proved of much benefit to the world in general, and the
wine-merchants of Reims and Epernay in particular, those most
immediately concerned in its production had little or no reason to
rejoice over its renown. The hapless peasants, from whose patches of
vineyard it was to a great extent derived, were the last to profit by
its popularity. Bidet, writing in 1759, foreshadows the misery which
marked the last thirty years of the _ancien régime_.[214] Speaking
of the important trade in wine carried on by the city of Reims, he
urges that this would in reality be benefited by the old decrees,
prohibiting the planting of new vineyards in the Champagne, being
enforced to the letter. Extensive plantations of vines in land suitable
for the growth of corn had doubled and even tripled the value of arable
land, and caused a rise in the price of wheat. Manure, so necessary
to bring these new plantations into bearing, and wood, owing to the
demand for vine-stakes, barrel-staves, &c., had risen to thrice their
former value. Recent epidemics had cost the lives of a large number
of vine-dressers, and public _corvées_ occupied the survivors a great
part of the year, and hence a considerable increase in the cost of
cultivation, landowners having to pay high wages to labourers from
a distance. 'Putting together all these excessive charges, with the
crushing dues levied in addition upon vine-land as well as upon the
sale and transport of wine, the result will infallibly be that the more
profitable the wine-trade formerly was to Reims and to the vineyards
of the environs, the more it will languish in the end, till it becomes
a burden to all the vineyard owners.' Happily these gloomy forebodings
have since been completely falsified.
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