Period of the Champagne vintage--Vintagers summoned by beat of drum--Early morning the best time for plucking the grapes--Excitement in the neighbouring villages at vintage-time--Vintagers at work--Mules employed to convey the gathered grapes down the steeper slopes--The fruit carefully examined before being taken to the wine-press--Arrival of the grapes at the vendangeoir--They are subjected to three squeezes, and then to the 'rébêche'--The must is pumped into casks and left to ferment--Only a few of the vine-proprietors in the Champagne press their own grapes--The prices the grapes command--Air of jollity throughout the district during the vintage--Every one is interested in it, and profits by it--Vintagers' fête on St. Vincent's-day--Endless philandering between the sturdy sons of toil and the sunburnt daughters of labour 148 V. /The Preparation of Champagne./ The treatment of Champagne after it comes from the wine-press--The racking and blending of the wine--The proportions of red and white vintages composing the 'cuvée'--Deficiency and excess of effervescence--Strength and form of Champagne bottles--The 'tirage' or bottling of the wine--The process of gas-making commences--Details of the origin and development of the effervescent properties of Champagne--The inevitable breakage of bottles which ensues--This remedied by transferring the wine to a lower temperature--The wine stacked in piles--Formation of sediment--Bottles placed 'sur pointe' and daily shaken to detach the deposit--Effect of this occupation on those incessantly engaged in it--The present system originated by a workman of Madame Clicquot's--'Claws' and 'masks'--Champagne cellars--Their construction and aspect--Raw recruits for the 'Regiment de Champagne'--Transforming the 'vin brut' into Champagne--Disgorging and liqueuring the wine--The composition of the liqueur--Variation in the quantity added to suit diverse national tastes--The corking, stringing, wiring, and amalgamating--The wine's agitated existence comes to an end--The bottles have their toilettes made--Champagne sets out on its beneficial pilgrimage round the world 154 VI. /Reims and its Champagne Establishments./