After staying a week at St. Petersburg we set off to Moscow by railway,
starting at 12 o'clock at noon. After getting our tickets, paying about
the same as in this country, with a little extra for luggage, we passed
into a large waiting room, and there remained till the doors were opened
upon the platform about five minutes before setting off.
Many of the travellers, particularly ladies, were seen carrying large
pillows or cushions to repose upon, thereby filling the carriages to
suffocation, and this in July.
The carriages are much like ours in appearance, but instead of three
there are nine carriages joined together, with a passage down the
centre, the same as in America.
The first class has a small compartment for one of the conductors or
guards, then a saloon, with a sofa on each side, and the remainder, two
seats on one side and one on the other, which, with the passage, require
a wider gauge, something like the Great Western.
The second class is much the same, with rather less upholstering; and
the third without cushions.
The rail appeared strong and very substantially laid, and is carried in
a straight level line for miles together through forests of great
extent. At each station a person goes round striking the wheels and
axles to see that all is sound. The engines are supplied with wood fuel,
and seemed powerful, dragging us along in some parts with great
rapidity.
The forest trees, consisting chiefly of pine, birch, and mountain ash,
with a few oaks and beech, did not appear so large as I expected, nor
was our monotonous course enlivened by the sight of an occasional bear
or eagle, being, we suppose, gone from home. Along some parts of the
line we observed the corduroy road (trees laid close together), and
gates formed of long poles counterpoised by a thicker part at the other
end.
There are thirty-three stations built upon one plan, spacious and
convenient, all on a level with the entrances to the carriages; two or
three of these are well supplied with eatables and drinkables, which
were by no means neglected; also a great consumption of tea, a very
general beverage in Russia, served in glass tumblers with lemon juice
instead of cream, which we did not consider a good substitute; though
accompanied with good bread and butter, proved to us far more acceptable
than many other dishes.
Smoking, everywhere so common, is here indulged to the greatest excess,
and not confined to one sex, several ladies sporting their cigarettes.
If not many passengers, a lady is usually accommodated with a double
seat.
I have mentioned the prevailing habit of bowing to the saints. This
occurred on our journey, and on looking back, I found we had just passed
a church at a considerable distance.
We arrived at Moscow at eight o'clock the following morning, having
performed the journey, 400 miles, in twenty hours, stopping at the
various stations about 1 1/2 hours, this journey formerly requiring twelve
to fifteen days.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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