Before leaving St. Petersburg you have to give two or three days'
notice, so that your name may appear in the Gazette, and thereby ensure
the due discharge of claims upon you. You are also furnished with a new
passport, instead of viseing the one you brought with you, thereby
supplying a few extra fees to the officials, which I consider to be the
chief object in keeping up this abominable system.
We left St. Petersburg in a small steamer, and embarked at Cronstadt in
the "Vladimer," a Russian steamer, very beautifully fitted up, with two
cabins on deck, one for the captain and the other for the use of the
passengers; the bulwarks, rather too high, and so obstruct the view, but
at the same time protective in foul weather. The accommodation was very
good, and the supply of provisions most ample, but not all suited to the
English palate.
In the evening we had a glorious sunset, and the following day passed a
lighthouse built upon a rock jutting out of the sea; then Reval,
situated on a high coast, and in three days arrived at Stettin, having
had a most enjoyable passage.
Among the passengers was a young Russian count, an officer in the army,
and, though only 27, had been in several severe engagements without
receiving a single wound. He was a most intelligent young man, well
acquainted with the history of most of the countries in Europe, and free
in his remarks upon the faults of his own, so much so that I did not
fail to remind him of Siberia.
Approaching the Prussian coast, I observed the first star since entering
the Baltic.
A few miles before landing we were boarded by a number of custom house
officers, a very good arrangement, saving much time and inconvenience.
The search was in no way strict after declaring that we had no tea or
leather.
Having to wait three or four hours for the train to Berlin, we walked
about the town, viewed a very remarkable statue of Frederick the Great,
and also entered an old church containing a very ancient organ and
pulpit wonderfully ornamented.
The railway carriages, like most others on the Continent, greatly excel
ours; the 1st class have three spacious seats, the 2nd two double seats,
and the 3rd much like our 2nd. It is a good line, and I should think
made at a moderate cost, there being few cuttings or embankments, and
not many bridges; the rails appeared to be about seven yards long. On
both sides we observed extensive fields of grain, and many women among
the reapers.
The city of Berlin is situated on a level sandy plain, and has many wide
streets and numerous public buildings, boulevards and other delightful
walks.
The king's palace, though very extensive, has a shabby appearance.
The state apartments are decorated with good paintings, tapestry, and
large chandeliers of solid silver; and there is a beautiful chapel, with
the floor ornamented with various marbles; also a library containing 500
Bibles in different languages and editions.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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