A Journey in Southeastern MexicoHarper, Henry Howard
History
A Journey in Southeastern Mexico
Harper, Henry Howard
Tuxpan de Rodríguez Cano (Mexico); Veracruz-Llave (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel
The dance began about nine o'clock and most of the participants, both
men and women, were neatly attired in white garments. The men were
very jealous of their girls, though for what reason it was hard to
understand. Many writers rhapsodise over the beauty and loveliness of
the Mexican women, but I couldn't see it. There are rare exceptions,
however. The dance-hall consisted of a smooth dirt floor with no
covering overhead, and the orchestra--a violin and some sort of a
wind-instrument--was mounted on a large box in the center. A row of
benches extended around the outside of the "dancing-ground." The men
all carried their machetes (large cutlasses, the blades of which range
from eighteen to thirty-six inches in length) in sheaths at their side,
and two or three of the more gaily dressed wore colored sashes around
their waists. All wore their sombreros. The dance had not progressed
for more than an hour when one of the villagers discovered that his
lady was engaging too much of the attention of one of our boatmen,
and this resulted in a quarrel. Both men drew their machetes and went
at one another in gladiator fashion. It looked as if both would be
carved to pieces, but after slashing at each other for awhile they were
separated and placed under arrest. It was discovered that one of them
had received an ugly, though not dangerous, wound in his side, while
the other (our man) had the tendons of his left wrist severed. The men
were taken away and the dance proceeded as orderly as before. We now
had only two boatmen left. In discussing the matter at home a year
later a member of our party remarked that "it was a great pity that the
whole bunch wasn't put out of commission; then we would have returned
to Tampico, and from there home." One of the natives very courteously
invited us to get up and take part in the dance, but after the episode
just mentioned we decided not to take a chance.
Our boatmen spent all the next day in fruitless endeavor to secure
another helper, and we did not start until the day after at about nine
o'clock--a needless delay of forty-two hours; but they were apparently
no more concerned than if it had been ten minutes. We were learning to
measure time with an elastic tape. Ober complains of the poor traveling
facilities in Mexico, and says that "in five days' diligent travel" he
accomplished but 220 miles. We had been out longer than that and had
not covered twenty miles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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