A Journey in Southeastern MexicoHarper, Henry Howard
History
A Journey in Southeastern Mexico
Harper, Henry Howard
Tuxpan de Rodríguez Cano (Mexico); Veracruz-Llave (Mexico : State) -- Description and travel
A _fiesta_ was in progress in honor of the birthday of some saint,
and it was impossible to get anyone to take us to Tuxpam, only a few
miles distant. We desired to continue via the _laguna_, and engaged
two men to take us in a sort of gondola, with the understanding that
we should leave just after sunset. We gave the men a dollar apiece in
advance, as they wished to purchase a few articles of food, etc., for
the journey, and they were to meet us at the inn at sunset. Neither of
them appeared at the appointed time, and in company with the innkeeper
we went in search of them. In the course of half an hour we found
one of the men behind a hut, drunk, and asleep. He had drank a whole
quart of _aguardiente_ and the empty bottle lay at his side. We left
him and went to the boat, where we found the other man stretched out
full length in the bottom with a half-filled bottle beside him. We
concluded to start out and to put the man at the paddle as soon as
he became sufficiently sober. The innkeeper directed us as best he
could and we pushed off from the shore about an hour after nightfall,
expecting to reach Tuxpam by eight o'clock next morning. We were told
to paddle out across the lake about a mile to the opposite shore, where
there was a channel leading into a large lake beyond. The water was
very shallow most of the way, and filled with marshgrass and other
vegetation, which swarmed with a great variety of waterfowl. Disturbed
by our approach they kept up a constant quacking, squawking and
screeching on all sides, which, reverberating on the still night-air,
made the scene dismal enough. There was a _baile_ in progress near
the shore in the village and as we paddled along far out in the lake
we could see the glimmer of the lights reflected along the surface
of the water and could hear the dance-music distinctly. When we had
gotten well out into the lake the drunken man in the bottom of the
boat waked up and inquired where he was and where we were taking him.
Seeing the lights in the distance and hearing the music he suddenly
remembered that he had promised to take his girl to the dance, and
demanded that he be taken back to shore. Upon being refused he jumped
out into the water and declared that he would wade back. We had great
difficulty in getting him back into the boat and came near capsizing
in the operation. The ducking he got sobered him up considerably and
at length we got him at the helm with the paddle and told him to head
for the mouth of the channel. He neared the shore to the right of the
channel and following along near the water's edge was within a quarter
of a mile of the village before we realized what his trick was. The
interpreter took the paddle away from him and told him of the dire
consequences that would follow if he didn't settle down and behave
himself. After turning the boat around and following along the shore
for half a mile he promised to take us to Tuxpam if we would agree
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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