A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and CumberlandRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
On our way from Schevening, where a dinner costs more than at an hotel
in the Hague, we turned a little to the right to see Portland Gardens,
once the favourite resort of William and Mary; and said to be laid
out in the English taste. They are now a bad specimen even of Dutch
gardens. The situation is unusually low, having on one hand the raised
bank of the Schevening road, and, on another, the sand hills of the
coast. Between these, the moisture of the sea air is held for a long
time, and finally drawn down upon the earth. The artificial ornaments
are stained and decaying; and the grass and weeds of the neglected
plots are capable only of a putrid green. Over walks of a black mould
you are led to the orangery, where there is more decay, and may look
through the windows of the green-house, to perceive how every thing is
declining there. Some pavilions, provided with water spouts, are then
to be seen; and, if you have the patience to wait the conclusion of
an operation, intended to surprise you, you may count how many of the
pipes refuse to perform their office.
Nearer to the Hague, we were stopped to pay a toll of a few doights;
a circumstance which was attended with this proof of civility. Having
passed in the morning, without the demand, we enquired why it should be
made now. The gatherer replied, that he had seen us pass, but, knowing
that we must return by the same way, had avoided giving more trouble
than was necessary. This tax is paid for the support of the bank, or
digue, over which the road passes; a work, begun on the 1st of May
1664, and finished on the 5th of December 1665, by the assistance of a
loan granted for the enterprise. The breadth of the road is thirty-two
yards.
The next day, after seeing the relief of the Stadtholder's _garde
du corps_, the privates of which wear feathered hats, with uniforms
of scarlet and gold, we left the Hague, with much admiration of
its pleasantness and quiet grandeur, and took the _roof_ of the
trechtschuyt for Leyden.
LEYDEN.
Three hours pleasant floating along a canal, adorned with frequent
country houses, gardens, summer-houses and square balconies, or rather
platforms, projecting over the water, within an hand's breadth of
its level, brought us to this city, which was esteemed the second
in Holland, before Rotterdam gained its present extent. Leyden is,
however, so large, that a traveller is likely to have a walk of half
a league to his inn; and those who arrive, as we did, at the time of
the fair, may find the procession not very pleasant. We increased our
difficulties by turning away from the dirt and incivility of what was
called the best inn, and did not afterwards find a better, though such,
it seems, might have been had.
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