A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and CumberlandRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 1 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
The chief street in the town is of the crescent form, so that,
with more public buildings, it would be a miniature resemblance of
High-street, Oxford. The town-house is built with many spires, and
with almost Chinese lightness. We did not see the interior of this,
or, indeed, of any other public buildings; for, in the morning, when
curiosity was to be indulged, our fastidiousness as to the inns
returned, and induced us to take a passage for Haerlem. The MSS. of the
Dutch version of the Bible, which are known to be deposited here, could
not have been shewn, being opened only once in three years, when the
Deputies of the Synod and States attend; but we might have seen, in the
town-house, some curious testimonies of the hardships and perseverance
of the inhabitants, during the celebrated blockade of five months, in
1574, in consideration of which the University was founded.
After viewing some well-filled booksellers' shops, and one wide street
of magnificent houses, we again made half the circuit of this extensive
city, in the way to the trechtschuyt for
HAERLEM.
The canal between Leyden and this place is nearly the pleasantest of
the great number, which connect all the towns of the province with each
other, and render them to the traveller a series of spectacles, almost
as easily visited as the amusements of one large metropolis. Though
this is said to be one of the lowest parts of Holland, the country
does not appear to have suffered more than the rest by water. The many
country seats, which border the canals, are also proofs that it is
thought to be well secured; yet this is the district, which has been
proved, by indisputable observations, to be lower than the neighbouring
sea, even in the profoundest calm. During the voyage, which was of four
hours, we passed under several bridges, and saw numbers of smaller
canals, crossing the country in various directions; but the passage of
a trechtschuyt is not delayed for an instant by a bridge, the tow-rope
being loosened from the boat, on one side, and immediately caught
again, on the other, if it should not be delivered by some person,
purposely stationed on the arch. It is not often that a canal makes
any bend in its course; when it does so, there are small, high posts
at the point, round which the tow-rope is drawn; and, that the cord
may not be destroyed by the friction, the posts support perpendicular
rollers, which are turned by its motion. Such posts and rollers might
be advantageously brought into use in England. On most of the canals
are half-way villages, where passengers may stop, about five minutes,
for refreshment; but they will be left behind, without any ceremony, if
they exceed the limited time, which the boatman employs in exchanging
letters for such of the neighbouring country houses as have not packet
boxes placed on the banks.
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