A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second EditionRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second Edition
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
Kaub, a Palatine town on the right bank of the river, is also
fortified, and claims a toll upon the Rhine, notwithstanding its
neighbourhood to Bacharach; an oppression, of which the expence is
almost the least inconvenience, for the toll-gatherers do not come to
the boats, but demand, that each should stop, while one at least of
the crew goes on shore, and tells the number of his passengers, who
are also sometimes required to appear. The officers do not even think
it necessary to wait at home for this information, and our boatmen
had frequently to search for them throughout the towns. So familiar,
however, is this injustice, that it never appeared to excite surprise,
or anger. The boatman dares not proceed till he has found and
satisfied the officers; nor has he any means of compelling them to be
punctual. Ours was astonished when we enquired, whether the merchants,
to whom such delays might be important, could not have redress for
them.
The stay we made at Kaub enabled us, however, to perceive that fine
slate made a considerable part of its traffic.
The Rhine, at Bacharach and Kaub, is of great breadth; and the dark
mountains, that ascend from its margin, form a grand vista, with
antient chateaux still appearing on the heights, and frequent villages
edging the stream, or studded among the cliffs.
Though the district of the Rheingau, the vines of which are the most
celebrated, terminated some miles past, the vineyards are scarcely
less abundant here, covering the lower rocks of the mountains, and
creeping along the fractures of their upper crags. These, however,
sometimes exhibit huge projecting masses and walls of granite, so
entire and perpendicular, that not an handful of soil can lodge for the
nourishment of any plant. They lie in vast oblique strata; and, as in
the valley of Andernach, the angles of the promontories on one shore of
the river frequently correspond with the recesses on the other.
OBERWESEL
Is another town, supported by the manufacture and trade of wines, which
are, however, here shared by too many places to bestow much wealth
singly upon any. Wine is also so important a production, that all the
Germans have some degree of connoisseurship in it, and can distinguish
its quantities and value so readily, that the advantage of dealing
in it cannot be great, except to those, who supply foreign countries.
The merits of the different vineyards form a frequent topic of
conversation, and almost every person has his own scale of their rank;
running over with familiar fluency the uncouth names of Johannesberg,
Ammanshausen, Hauptberg, Fuldische Schossberg, Rudesheim, Hockheim,
Rodtland, Hinterhauser, Markerbrunner, Grafenberg, Laubenheim,
Bischeim, Nierstein, Harscheim and Kapellgarren; all celebrated
vineyards in the Rheingau. The growth and manufacture of these wines
are treated of in many books, from one of which we translate an
account, that seems to be the most comprehensive and simple.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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