A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second EditionRadcliffe, Ann Ward
History
A Journey Made in the Summer of 1794, through Holland and the Western Frontier of Germany, with a Return Down the Rhine, Vol. 2 (of 2): To Which Are Added Observations during a Tour to the Lakes of Lancashire, Westmoreland, and Cumberland; Second Edition
Radcliffe, Ann Ward
Europe -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Lake District (England) -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Radcliffe, Ann Ward, 1764-1823 -- Travel -- Europe
Rees is near enough to Holland to have some of its advantages;
and, whatever contempt it may be natural for English travellers,
at the commencement of their tour, to feel for Dutch dullness and
covetousness, nothing but some experience of Germany is necessary
to make them rejoice in a return to the neatness, the civility, the
comforts, quietness, and even the good humour and intelligence to be
easily found in Holland. Such, at least, was the change, produced in
our minds by a journey from Nimeguen to Friburg. The lower classes of
the Dutch, and it is the conduct of such classes, that every where has
the chief influence upon the comforts of others, are not only without
the malignant sullenness of the Germans, and, therefore, ready to
return you services for money, but are also much superior to them in
intelligence and docility. Frequent opportunities of gain, and the
habit of comparing them, sharpen intellects, which might otherwise
never be exercised. In a commercial country, the humblest persons
have opportunities of profiting by their qualifications; they are,
therefore, in some degree, prepared for better conditions, and do not
feel that angry envy of others, which arises from the consciousness of
some irremediable distinction.
The inhabitants of Rees speak both Dutch and German; and it was
pleasing to hear at the inn the sulky _yaw_ of the latter exchanged for
the civil _Yaw well, Mynheer_, of the Dutch. The town is built chiefly
of brick, like those in Holland; the streets light; the market-place
spacious, and the houses well preserved. It is of no great extent,
but the space within the walls is filled, though this must have been
sometimes partly cleared by the sieges, to which Rees was subject in
the war of Philip the Second upon the Dutch. A few emigrants from
Brussels and Maestricht were now sheltered in it; but there was no
garrison and no other symptom of its neighbourhood to the scenes of
hostilities, than the arrival of a Prussian commissary to collect
hay and corn. We were cheered by the re-appearance of prosperity in a
country, where it is so seldom to be seen, and passed a better evening
in this little town, than in any other between Friburg and Holland.
In the morning, having no disgust to impel us, we were somewhat tardy
in embarking; and the boatmen, who had found out the way of reviving
our impatience, talked of the great distance of Holland, till they had
us on board. Five or six well-looking villages presently appear after
leaving Rees, the next port to which is Emmerick, once an Hanseatic
town, and still a place of some dignity, from spires and towers, but
certainly not of much commerce, for we could not see more than two
vessels on the beach.
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