A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
As our road proceeded it increased in magnificence, entering the heart
of the mountains, on the summit of one of which the town of Menakha is
perched. This river lies at an elevation of somewhat over five thousand
feet above the sea. Quite suddenly the valley comes to an end, and we
commenced one of those steep ascents to which we were almost becoming
accustomed now. The path is little but a boulder-strewn track in the
mountain-side, and one could not help wondering how our little mules
would ever accomplish the climb. Dismounting at the foot, Abdurrahman,
Saïd, and I raced ahead, scrambling and tumbling over the rocks, and
nearly frightening the wits out of a descending caravan, who probably
had never seen the like of us before; for although Saïd was in the Yemen
costume, Abdurrahman wore the there unknown dress of the mountaineers of
Morocco, while I was in riding-breeches, and flannel shirt, and a red fez
cap. Great proud-looking fellows the caravan-men were, and they watched
us with a startled stare, evidently putting us down as lunatics. However,
our laughter at their surprise so amused them that they became quite
friendly, and would not let me go on till I had shaken each singly by the
hand, which I was only too pleased to do. Up and up we toiled, leaving
the mules to follow with the muleteers. Every here and there are springs
which the natives have aided by building tanks, and now and again we
would stop to drink and bathe our faces and hands.
Almost suddenly we reached the summit, after a climb of over two thousand
five hundred feet up the execrable zigzag path, and the little town of
Menakha lay before me.
I determined to wait here for my soldier-guards, whom we had left a long
way behind us; so we threw ourselves down, panting and hot, upon a ledge
of rock, and gazed at the scene before us. Wonderful, stupendous it
was! Around us on all sides the bare fantastic peaks and perpendicular
precipices, on the edge of one of which we were perched, and up the
face of which we could see the path we had climbed winding in and out.
Below us, far, far below, like little ants, we could see our mules and
men toiling up. A thread of river, the Wadi Zaum, was distinguishable
down the valley, the few green thorny trees which grew along its banks
being, with the exception of some stunted brushwood and a few aloes and
creepers, the sole vegetation in view. A very entrance to the “Inferno,”
gloomy and dark. The rays of the setting sun lit up in contrast to all
this the roseate peaks of the mountains, many of which, thousands of
feet above us, were crowned with strange villages and towers. At length
our mules caught us up, and mounting again for the few yards that yet
remained between us and Menakha, we made our entry into the town, drawing
up at the principal Government building, where the Kaimakam resided.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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