A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that countryHarris, Walter
History
A journey through the Yemen and some general remarks upon that country
Harris, Walter
Yemen (Republic) -- Description and travel
My guard of Turkish soldiers had been intrusted with letters to the
governors respectively of Menakha and Hodaidah, and no sooner was our
missive presented than I was shown into the presence of the Kaimakam. I
found him pleasant, as nearly all Turks can be when they like, and an
hour or so passed very cheerily. Meanwhile he had given orders for a room
to be prepared for me within the precincts of the Government offices, and
on leaving him I was shown to a large, comfortable, airy chamber on the
ground-floor, with a window looking over a sort of drill-yard, beyond
which was a fine view of the mountains, the opposite spur of which, at
an altitude of some hundreds of feet above the town, was crowned with a
Turkish fort, near which some artillerymen were drilling.
It should have been mentioned already that the road we had been following
from Sanaa was almost identically the line taken by the Sanaa and
Hodaidah telegraph-wire, which, like all provincial Turkish telegraphs,
is, I believe, worked by the Government, from a representative of whom
one is obliged to obtain permission before making use of it. This
permission had been refused me at Sanaa. At Menakha there is quite a
pretentious office.
After leaving the Kaimakam I went for a stroll in the town, followed of
course by a guard, who, however, did not in the least interfere with
my actions, and in whose presence I was venturesome enough to sketch,
without calling forth any sterner reproof than that if they were caught
allowing me to draw they might get into trouble, so that I had better
creep behind a rock and make any sketches I wanted from a spot where I
would not be seen.
Of all the places it has ever been my lot to see, Menakha is the most
wonderfully situated. The town is perched on a narrow strip of mountain
that joins two distinct ranges, and it forms the watershed of two great
valleys—that up which we had proceeded on our arrival, and the second to
the west. So narrow is the ridge on which the town stands, that the walls
of the houses on both sides seem almost to hang over the precipices; and
there are spots—for instance, near the military hospital—where one can
sit and look down absolutely into the two great valleys at the same time.
Curious and wonderful as this is, the grand effect of the scene is doubly
increased by the extraordinary peaks which rise above the place—enormous
pinnacles, for no other word can express their fantastic shapes and
forms. Great, bare, rocky crags they are, perpendicular, and ending,
like sugar-loafs, in points, on which, in several places, the natives
have built their strange towers. How they ever ascend or descend seems
incredible, or from whence they obtain their water-supply.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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