Rose half past three; dressed without a glass. On the road observed two
little bears chained; they are fed one or two years and then eaten;
these were about two months old. Also saw a quantity of pigs. A
beautiful drive along the Kanawha. Indians farm on this side; mountains
of fine timber on the other. Breakfasted 16 miles from the Falls, on
good coffee and honey. Plenty of bucks' horns hung in the yard. Another
young bear chained in a yard to be fed and eaten. 65,000 pigs driven
last year through one turnpike gate. Large salt-works, the brine is
pumped up and evaporated. Good coals are drawn out of the mountains on
both sides of the valley, fine springs of gas escaping out of the
surface which ignited on applying a live coal. The negroes said it would
continue burning a week or two unless put out by rain.
Waited at Charleston nearly an hour and then found the coach filled with
passengers, my seat particularly hot and disagreeable, so that I got
outside; the driver refused to have more than one with him. I insisted
on the seat, at length the other person went upon the roof, and I had a
pleasant ride through hilly country covered with forest trees. On
descending the hills one of the horses ran the coach wheel a little on
the bank, so as nearly to throw it down the precipice. Again we forded
the river in consequence of the bridge being washed away. Arrived at
Guyandotte on the Ohio at half past eleven, got some coffee and entered
the mail steamboat, where I slept pretty well notwithstanding the
lightning and the shaking of the vessel.
WEDNESDAY, JULY 2ND.
Rose half past five at the sound of a bell so that the beds could be
adjusted before breakfast; shaved and washed my mouth in iced water.
Walked on shore to Portsmouth; saw a basket of offal beef thrown into
the river; a warm morning, the ice on the butter steaming, 17 dishes of
hot meat besides vegetables for the people. Paid to Maysville including
breakfast and bed 3 dollars. Very much pleased with the cabin boy
singing about "Father fighting for him and liberty," "Tennessee and
liberty."
Arrived at Maysville at half past one.
Took a julep consisting of 1-1/2 glass of wine with plenty of sugar and
ice, also several herbs, mint, etc., mingled together, making a richly
flavoured beverage. Took some dinner but found nothing good but some
cucumber and onion. Paid fare to Lexington, 4 dollars. Passed yesterday
a chapel made of squared pines dove-tailed together. At sunset I and Mr.
Hart the young midshipman, went and bathed in the Ohio, most
delightfully warm and the current very strong. The river rose last
winter but one, 63 feet.
Maysville, a very pretty place to stop a day or two. The beach is high
and consequently has a fine view of the steam boats, which are often
passing up and down this noble river.
THURSDAY, JULY 3RD.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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