During the night the boat pitched and rolled more than I expected. Got up at half past five, found some difficulty in shaving and a little qualmish. Passed two islands covered with wood. Made a poor breakfast, the milk had turned sour and I did not like the egg substitute. Went on shore at Kingston; entered a Sunday School but heard only some noisy instruction; then entered the English Church but service not commenced; then a Catholic Church, had some drops sprinkled upon me by the priest. Looked through a new steamer which was being built, a double wheel and the paddles alternately. A great quantity of wheat swept off the deck in our steamer. A great deal of money squandered here in barracks, forts, etc.; two ships rotting upon the stocks. The Rideau Canal[18] comes to this place, only good as furnishing employment, but what becomes of old England? Passed the 1000 islands, rocky and covered with wood. An old Canadian with an elegant bag for tobacco studded with beads. Very sleepy and dull most of this afternoon. At seven came to Brockville a pretty little town situated on rising ground. Arrived at Prescott soon after nine. Cholera reported to be very bad at Quebec, ninety a day dying; still I shall go on, hoping for the best. MONDAY, JULY 21ST. Rose at four, got some new milk as a good foundation; paid 1/- English for bed, walked over the new steamboat with air-tubes on each side and two small helms attached to each, a 1-1/2 yd. long and 1/3 deep turning nearly upon the centre, 180 feet long and about 27 wide; two engines. Left at six, breakfasted outside; had a beautiful view of the bank and island. Paid 1/9 and 7 dollars for passage to Montreal. The sail most delightful; in some places the surface became suddenly disturbed, one side a whirlpool, the other boiling up. The Durham boats[19], as they are called, are drawn up the river by means of six oxen. Cornwall[20] 1/4 past 11. One of the Durham boats drawn by two horses belly deep in the river because the banks are grassy and soft. Hazel trees different to ours; a good deal of nuts. Passed a very splendid Rapid, called at St. Regis, an Indian village; three young Indians nearly naked, one of them caught a halfpenny thrown a considerable distance, then jumped into the river; sailed with us in our boat then plunged into the water towards the shore; they had very black hair and were very brown. An old female Indian came to beg; also a canoe with two females and a little one. Prevailed on one of the females to sing: thought it a Catholic chant in the Indian language. Saw two canoes all of one piece of wood. Another delightful drive along the banks of the St. Lawrence; more Rapids; also a beautiful garden, almost the first I have seen since my visit to America. Arrived at Montreal at nine. The two last days have been spent delightfully. TUESDAY, JULY 22ND.