A Journey to Katmandu (the Capital of Napaul), with the Camp of Jung Bahadoor: Including a Sketch of the Nepaulese Ambassador at HomeOliphant, Laurence
History
A Journey to Katmandu (the Capital of Napaul), with the Camp of Jung Bahadoor: Including a Sketch of the Nepaulese Ambassador at Home
Oliphant, Laurence
Nepal -- Description and travel
We rode round it in a sort of court-yard, enclosed by small two-storied
houses, which were very filthy, and out of which emerged men, women, and
children, very filthy also; we were soon encompassed by a crowd of the
most disreputable, dissolute-looking wretches imaginable. The women were
dressed in thick woollen gowns, which had once been red, and reached a
little below the knee; these were loosely fastened round the waist,
remaining open or closed above as the case might be. The children,
notwithstanding the inclement temperature, were in the cool and airy
costume common to the rising generation in the East. The men were
dressed exactly like the women; their matted hair and beard, flat noses,
and wide eyes, generally bloodshot, giving them a disgusting appearance.
Both sexes wore a sort of woollen gaiter, open at the calf, the
protruding muscle of which looked as if nothing could have confined it;
their shoes, as far as the dust would allow me to see, were of the same
material. They seemed good-natured and inoffensive, but are not free
from the vice of drunkenness; they consume quantities of tea prepared
with rancid lard.
Had I been asked to determine the origin of this race, I should have
pronounced it to be a mixture of Naples lazzaroni with the scum of an
Irish regiment. The ruddy complexions of some of the women, and the
swarthy look of many of the men, might fairly warrant such a conclusion.
They were so importunate and offensive as they pressed round me that I
hurried over my sketch of the temple, and made my escape from them, not,
however, without once more looking round with interest on the crowd of
beings whose distant habitations were upon the northern slope of the
Himalayan chain, hitherto unvisited by any European, except Dr. Hooker,
and consequently almost totally unknown.
I quite envied them the journey they were about to undertake, which would
occupy them three weeks; the large droves of sheep by which they are
always accompanied carried their limited worldly possessions, together
with the various tokens of civilization which they had procured in the
(to them) highly civilized country they were now visiting, and on which
no doubt their Bhootan friends would look with no little awe and
wonderment.
This wandering and singular race do not visit Nepaul solely to worship at
the temple of Bhood, but have an eye to business as well as religion. I
shall have occasion by and by to speak of the numerous articles which
they import into Nepaul, on the backs of sheep, over the rocky passes
which lead from the cold region they inhabit.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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