A Journey to Katmandu (the Capital of Napaul), with the Camp of Jung Bahadoor: Including a Sketch of the Nepaulese Ambassador at Home — John Shaqi
A Journey to Katmandu (the Capital of Napaul), with the Camp of Jung Bahadoor: Including a Sketch of the Nepaulese Ambassador at HomeOliphant, Laurence
History
A Journey to Katmandu (the Capital of Napaul), with the Camp of Jung Bahadoor: Including a Sketch of the Nepaulese Ambassador at Home
Oliphant, Laurence
Nepal -- Description and travel
The road along which we were travelling in this extraordinary manner was
not, as might be expected, impassable for horses; on the contrary, it was
an excellent macadamized and perfectly level road, denominated the Great
Trunk Road of Bengal.
The country through which this road led us was flat, stale, but not
unprofitable, since on either side were paddy-fields extending _ad
infinitum_, studded here and there with clumps of palms.
The climate was delightful, and the morning air tempted us to uncoil
ourselves from our night-wrappers, and take a brisk walk in the dust;
after which we mounted the coach-box, and devised sundry practical
methods for accelerating our team, who however were equally ingenious in
contriving to save themselves fatigue.
The mid-day sun at last ridded them of their tormentors, and we once more
betook ourselves to our comfortable beds in the interior of the
conveyance, there to moralize over the barbarism of a man, calling
himself an enlightened Englishman, in employing men instead of horses to
drag along two of his fellow-countrymen, who showed themselves even more
dead to every feeling of humanity by the way in which they urged on their
unfortunate fellow-creatures. These coolies were certainly very well
paid, and need not have been so employed had they not chosen--for they
had all applied for their several appointments--but then the ignominy of
the thing!
And so we rolled lazily along, hoping to reach Benares some time within
the next fortnight. Before dark we passed through Burdwan, where a few
Bengal civilians vegetate on large salaries, to do the work of the rajah,
who is still more highly paid not to interfere. He lives magnificently
in his palace, and they live magnificently in theirs. We arrived at a
small rest-house at night, where we had the satisfaction of eating a fowl
in cutlets an hour after it had been enjoying the sweets of life.
There is a considerable amount of enjoyment in suddenly coming to hills
after you have for a long time seen nothing but flat country--in first
toiling up one and then bowling down the other side, at the imminent
peril of the coolies' necks--in seeing streams when you have seen nothing
but wells--in coming amidst wood and water and diversified scenery, when
every mile that you have travelled for a week past has been the same as
the last. Such were our feelings as we woke at daylight one morning in
the midst of the Rajmahal hills.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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