England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
My road led me a little inland, for I avoided the tourist-haunted one
that winds over Beachy Head, that grand headland that rises so sheer,
white, and commandingly above the sounding sea. Would one could behold
it in its ancient seclusion! Such spots demand solitude, or they cease
to be impressive. "The fatal gift of fame" has been the headland's
undoing, aided by its proximity to a fashionable watering-place, and
the crowd it attracts from early morning till the sun is setting. They
even sell picture post-cards there and bottled ginger-beer! Need more
be said? Yet I recently read an article in a London paper upon "The
Pleasant Solitude of Beachy Head." Was it written in Fleet Street, I
wonder?
All the roads over the downs are hilly ones; they are for ever either
ascending or descending; their gradients are generally fairly severe,
and their surfaces none of the best. Now and then you come upon a
comparatively level stretch, but not for long. So we soon began a
long descent, only to climb steeply again and to find ourselves on a
wind-swept height with a tiny flint-built church crowning the topmost
ridge of it. Friston church it was marked on our map--an unpretending
building, yet not wanting in dignity, and simple dignity is a rare
quality, as delightful as it is rare. Even some city-surrounded
cathedrals do not attain it. Doubtless its elevated and lonely position
gave the humble little fane a certain poetic charm, for it is not only
the building but its place in the prospect that affects the observer.
Stonehenge in a farm field, away from the wild and open plain that
surrounds it, would lose much of its impressiveness; it has lost some
of it already by being railed in. A castle in a hollow, as many were
built to secure the services of a moat, is not the same to the eye
as a castle boldly dominating the landscape from some overhanging
crag. Bodiam's ruined Castle, set in a wooded valley, is beautiful
but not impressive; on the other hand, Carreg Cennin Castle in South
Wales, though inferior in size and much poorer a ruin, is singularly
impressive, standing as it does isolated on the top of a perpendicular
precipice of rock. That is the sort of castle I pictured to myself and
used to draw in fancy when I was a boy.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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