England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Nettles and weeds now flourish in the abbey's deserted courts and
around its roofless buildings, the only roofed portion being the
Chapter-house, which is entire with its three richly ornamented arched
doorways, of which I give an illustration. It may be noted that between
the pillars are statues under canopies, a remarkable feature that I
do not remember to have seen in any ecclesiastical edifice before.
It struck me that these statues were an after-thought and had been
introduced at a later period by cutting pillars away to receive them;
I cannot say that they altogether pleased me, for they disturbed the
unity and simplicity of the fine Norman arches. The flat oak roof of
the Chapter-house appears to be in perfect condition, though I was
surprised to find an oak roof there and not a vaulted one of stone. The
chief offices appertaining to the abbey appear to have been built round
a court beyond the cloisters; of these the Abbot's Lodge retains its
beautiful bay-window, and what was probably the guest-house retains all
its side windows with their tracery intact. This building has a large
gable at one end flanked by shapely turrets.
[Illustration: HAUGHMOND ABBEY, CHAPTER-HOUSE.]
Of the many stately tombs the abbey church once contained only two
inscribed slabs remain, but these are interesting: one to John Fitz
Alan, deceased 1270, who was buried before the high altar, bears the
following inscription in Norman French, as was the fashion of the
time:--
VOVS KI PASSEZ ICI PRIES PVR LAME IOHAN FIS ALEIN
KI GIT ICI DEV DE SA ALME EIT MERCI. AMEN.
ISABEL DE MORTIMER SA FEMME ACOST DE L ... DEV
DE LVR ALME ... MERCI. AMEN.
Another slab has the incised effigy of a woman shown wearing a quaint
head-dress with a coat-of-arms on either side of it, her gloved hands
folded in prayer; the inscription is in Latin, that prevailed during
that later period and for long afterwards, and thus it runs:--
Hic jacet ... filia Iohis Leyton armigi & uxor Ricardi mynde que obiit
in festo Cathedre Sancti Petri Anno Dni Millesio cccc xxviij cui aie
ppiciet Deus Amen.
I loitered long at Haughmond, and loth I was to leave so
peace-bestowing a spot; thither the world-weary pilgrim might well
come in search of rest, for nowhere could he find a quietude more
profound. I wish I could, in words, express the peacefulness of the
spot, a peacefulness that grew upon me and that seemed to me on leaving
like an unuttered benediction, but not the less a benediction because
unuttered. Never bade I farewell to a spot more reluctantly; never
have I felt a greater desire to return to one. Such was the spell it
cast upon me. "Within its walls peace reigned; from its stately church
came the sounds of prayer and praise; its gates were ever open to the
pilgrim and the poor; its hospitality and brotherly kindness softened
the harsh incidence of the feudal days."
CHAPTER XII
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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