England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
An angler's haunt--Ferries and stepping-stones--Curious old
stained-glass window--The ruins of Uriconium--Watling Street--The
Wrekin--Richard Baxter's old home--A Cabinet minister's story--A
pretty village--Buildwas Abbey--Ironbridge--The "Methodists' Mecca."
Leaving Haughmond to its ancient peace, and finding the road we were
on led to Shrewsbury, we took a byway to our left, chancing where it
might go. We did not select our road, we took the first one we came to
so as to avoid revisiting Shrewsbury, and it led us, with many pleasant
windings, through a country of great charm, and unexpectedly to many
interesting places. No guide-book could have done us better service. We
had at the start fir-crowned hills to the left of us with a tower on
the top of them, a modern one, but still a picturesque feature, and the
silvery Severn to the right, and in the narrow and pleasant stretch of
country between our road went in a dreamy, indirect fashion.
At Uffington I noticed a river-side inn with an angler, rod in hand,
standing idly in the doorway, so concluded, with the river close by,
this must be a fisherman's haunt. I was almost tempted to pull up
there and go a-fishing, for it looked such a pleasant hostelry, one
whereat a lazy man might laze contentedly. At Uffington the monks of
Haughmond had a ferry, and so in the absence of any bridge they crossed
the Severn there on the way to Shrewsbury. I am told the ferry still
exists, and I was glad to hear it, for ferries and stepping-stones
form such picturesque features in the landscape. In Wales, where I
once stopped awhile at a remote farmhouse, the only way across the
little river in front of it was by stepping-stones, and I took quite
a childish delight in crossing and recrossing them, and more than
once I discovered an artist painting the spot; there was a very real
fascination for me about this primitive way of crossing a stream, in
an age when all things are made so uninterestingly smooth and easy, a
method probably originally suggested by the boulders that strew the bed
of a mountain river.
So we followed the Severn down, now losing sight of it, now recovering
it again, till we came to Atcham, where the river flowed wide and
strong under a fine seven-arched bridge; there by the roadside stood a
large old house that had evidently been a coaching inn, and there under
the shade of some trees I pulled up the car to have a look around, for
it was a pleasant spot.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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