England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
[1] Since writing the above I noted the following paragraph in my
morning paper: "A team of draught oxen in Sussex was disposed of near
Lewes. The wooden yoke was purchased by the Mayor of Brighton for
presentation to the Brighton Museum." A future generation may need
the aid of a Commentator to understand the agricultural operations of
to-day and the recent past.
Oxen, the driver explained to me, pull from the top of their necks and
not by the collar as horses do; yet on lifting a yoke I saw no signs of
worn hair, only a smoothness where the yoke touched. Oxen, I learnt,
were broken in to draught work at two years old and kept at it from
five to six years, after which they were fattened for the market. Their
beef was somewhat tough, as might be expected, and chiefly bought by
certain institutions. Oxen, I further learnt, were cheaper to keep than
horses, as they were fed mainly on hay, chaff, and roots; whilst horses
needed oats. So I travelled and picked up odd bits of information.
Then we sought out West Dean, prepared to tramp there if no road were
available, for West Dean we were determined to see. Unexpectedly
we discovered a narrow lane that led to it, the downs rising sheer
above on either hand, leaving just room for the lane and a little
clear-running stream which we followed up to the village.
A quaint village it proved to be, to use a term too often misapplied,
one that surely has no counterpart in all the land. Picturesque it
could hardly be called; but though I prize both the picturesque and
quaint, the quaint pleases me the better because it is so much the rarer.
Its tiny church has an uncommon tower--a strong structure, well suited
to its purpose, but devoid of disturbing decoration that too often
fails to decorate and serves but to vex the eye; otherwise, though
ancient enough, the church is not noteworthy; still the simple shapely
tower gives it a certain charm and character; and character, whether in
man or building, is a thing to be desired.
Facing the churchyard we discovered a most interesting relic of past
times when religion was more to the fore than it is to-day. This was a
pre-Reformation priest-house of the fourteenth century or thereabouts,
an austere building of thick rough masonry, deep and narrow arched
windows, and a great chimney-stack at one end, a building probably
erected in this remote spot by the travelling monks who had not to
live in it. I have, here and there, come upon an ancient fourteenth or
fifteenth-century priest-house, for they have not all been improved
away. There is one at Alfriston, another at West Hoathly--both in
Sussex,--and another at Muchelney in Somerset, but these are all
half-timbered buildings fairly lighted, and have not the solid, gloomy
look of the prison-like structure at West Dean, the windows of which
were originally probably of horn, or even possibly mere open spaces
with shutters.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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