England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
Up and down hill we went, then we dropped down to West Meon, a neat,
clean village. The chief occupation of its inhabitants at the time
appeared to be in standing idly at their doorways, or loafing in the
road; it somehow reminded me of a scene at a theatre ready set, with
the minor performers in place and awaiting the principal actors to come
on the stage and play their parts. I often wonder how these villagers
live with no local industry; they cannot live on one another, and
they do not seem exactly the sort of people to receive dividends on
investments, though in all of them at least the public-house appears
to prosper. It is a problem beyond me. Here we crossed the Meon on a
little stone bridge and proceeded by a delightfully tree-shaded road,
as pleasant as a road could be, and along by the river-side to the
tiny decayed village of Warnford, a mere hamlet rather of a few pretty
and ancient cottages deep in woods where each cottage is a picture.
Yet it had a depressingly lonely look as though the village were under
some spell, for I did not see a soul about it, not a face at a window,
not a figure at a door, no one in its cottage gardens, not a child,
nor a dog, nor a fowl in the road. I stopped in the village for an
hour, or more, to make some sketches and to take some photographs,
yet all that while there was no sign of life about the place, no one
going or coming. I could not but marvel at this, it was so curious
an experience. It looked like a deserted village, yet the cottages
appeared well cared for, and their little gardens loved and well
tended. The strange loneliness and silence of the spot impressed me.
Why was it? I could not account for it, unless all its inhabitants were
away making holiday, but where were the dogs and the fowls? It might
almost have been one of those picturesque model villages one sees in
an exhibition at an early hour before the very properly dressed up and
show village maidens have arrived and when no one is there, only it was
far too real for that.
There was one thing besides its loneliness that seemed strange and
incomplete about the spot, though for a time I could not realise what
I missed; then it struck me it was the absence of a presiding church,
that is generally such a prominent feature of a village and centres
the life of it. I looked carefully around, but nowhere could I see
the church; there was no sign of one, nor a chapel. For even peaceful
villagers cannot worship one God in one way.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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