England -- Description and travel; Wales -- Description and travel
At Dane Hill we came upon a good main road that led us to a wild, open
upland reaching far on either hand, a delightful bit of unsophisticated
nature where the land is poor as land well can be, so poor that
according to a local expression "it would make a crow cry to fly over
it," yet beautiful in colour to look upon. A glorious stretch of wide
and wild country bare to the sky and swept by all the winds that blow,
and the absence of any bounding hedges or fences left the eye at
liberty to rove over it unchecked to the furthermost horizon of distant
hills "rolling in the blue," and to the fir-fringed heights ahead of
Ashdown Forest darkly outlined against the sky. Glorious in colour
with its masses of purple heather and golden gorse, and sweet was the
odour of the gorse that came wafted to us on the soft west wind. All
England is not tamed or cultivated, and I am thankful, in a scenic
sense, that some portions of it, such as the moors and heaths, still
resist the dominion of man, as they have done for ages past. Not so
Cobbett, for thus he writes apparently of this very spot in his _Rural
Rides_: "You cross Ashdown Forest ... verily the most villainously ugly
spot I ever saw in England ... getting, if possible, uglier and uglier
all the way, till at last you see some rising spots which instead of
trees present you with some ragged, hideous rocks." But no land was
beautiful in Cobbett's view, I take it, unless it would grow good
wheat; he notices the rocks, "hideous" in his eyes, though romantic
in others, but has not a word for the glowing gorse or purple heather
that I presumed flourished there in his day, as now. What was gorse or
heather or their rich colours to him? You cannot eat gorse or heather;
mere beauty he considered not, but a well-grown field of turnips sent
him into raptures. Ashdown Forest climbing the hillside, though it
only grows trees, is to me with its green glades, its groves of pine
and their dim pillared recesses, as delightfully shady and as silent a
retreat as the heart of man could desire, yet Cobbett deems it a "most
villainously ugly spot." Let no one trust Cobbett's _Rural Rides_ as
a touring guide. Nor by his own showing does he appear to have been a
very gracious traveller, for thus he writes of one inn where he stopped
the night and left the next morning early: "By making a great stir in
rousing waiters and boots and maids, and leaving behind me the name of
a 'noisy troublesome fellow,' I got clear." I read Cobbett's _Rural
Rides_ in the hopes of gaining some information about scenery--and the
only information I could gain was about the qualities, good or bad,
of agricultural land. Now the title _Rural Rides_ suggests pleasant
rovings, not lectures upon land and upon politics.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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