France -- Description and travel; James, Henry, 1843-1916 -- Travel -- France
Nîmes has every reason to be proud of itself; it has been revealed to
the world at large by copious photography. A clear, abundant stream
gushes from the foot of a high hill (covered with trees and laid out in
paths), and is distributed into basins which sufficiently refer
themselves to the period that gave them birth--the period that has left
its stamp on that pompous Peyrou which we admired at Montpellier. Here
are the same terraces and steps and balustrades, and a system of
waterworks less impressive perhaps, but very ingenious and charming. The
whole place is a mixture of old Rome and of the French eighteenth
century; for the remains of the antique baths are in a measure
incorporated in the modern fountains. In a corner of this umbrageous
precinct stands a small Roman ruin, which is known as a temple of Diana,
but was more apparently a _nymphæum_, and appears to have had a graceful
connection with the adjacent baths. I learn from Murray that this little
temple, of the period of Augustus, "was reduced to its present state of
ruin in 1577;" the moment at which the townspeople, threatened with a
siege by the troops of the Crown, partly demolished it lest it should
serve as a cover to the enemy. The remains are very fragmentary, but
they serve to show that the place was lovely. I spent half an hour in
it on a perfect Sunday morning (it is enclosed by a high _grille_,
carefully tended, and has a warden of its own), and with the help of my
imagination tried to reconstruct a little the aspect of things in the
Gallo-Roman days. I do wrong perhaps to say that I _tried_; from a
flight so deliberate I should have shrunk. But there was a certain
contagion of antiquity in the air; and among the ruins of baths and
temples, in the very spot where the aqueduct that crosses the Gardon in
the wondrous manner I had seen discharged itself, the picture of a
splendid paganism seemed vaguely to glow. Roman baths--Roman baths;
those words alone were a scene. Everything was changed: I was strolling
in a _jardin français_; the bosky slope of the Mont Cavalier (a very
modest mountain), hanging over the place, is crowned with a shapeless
tower, which is as likely to be of mediæval as of antique origin; and
yet, as I leaned on the parapet of one of the fountains, where a flight
of curved steps (a hemicycle, as the French say) descended into a basin
full of dark, cool recesses, where the slabs of the Roman foundations
gleam through the clear green water--as in this attitude I surrendered
myself to contemplation and reverie, it seemed to me that I touched for
a moment the ancient world. Such moments are illuminating, and the light
of this one mingles, in my memory, with the dusky greenness of the
Jardin de la Fontaine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account