And well was it for us that this was the case; for as we approached the
river's mouth we saw that the ground-swell was rapidly increasing in
weight, and that the surf was breaking upon the beach with such violence
that if it happened to be also breaking upon the bar it would be quite
useless for us to attempt to enter the river. Indeed, so formidable did
the appearance of the surf at length become that the captain ordered the
rest of the boats to heave-to, while we in the gig went ahead to
reconnoitre and inspect the condition of the bar. This was a bit of
work for which the gig was peculiarly well adapted, for she was a
beautifully modelled boat, double-ended, with a long flat floor--a
splendid sailer, and a boat which would claw off a lee shore in almost
any weather, the skipper having had her fitted with a good, deep, false
keel.
The wind was blowing a moderately fresh breeze from the westward at the
time, thus, the rest of the boats having hove-to, it did not take us
very long to run in far enough to get a sight of the bar. This was a
rather trying experience for the nerves of us all; for the surf was
pounding on the beach ahead of us in a constant succession of towering
walls of water, that reared themselves to a height of fully thirty feet
ere they curled over and broke in thunder so deafening that we presently
found it impossible to make our voices heard above its continuous roar.
But the skipper, standing up in the stern-sheets, soon detected the
smooth, narrow strip of unbroken water, and directed the coxswain to
shift his helm for it. I sprang up on a thwart and waved a small white
flag as a signal to the other boats to fill away and follow us; and as
soon as we had reached the very middle of the channel we rounded-to and
lowered our sail, remaining where we were to act as a guide to the other
boats.
Keeping our position with the aid of a couple of oars thrown over to
enable us to stem the out-flowing current, which we now began to feel,
we allowed the other boats to pass in over the bar and reach the smooth
water before us; then, hoisting our sail again, we followed them in and
presently resumed our position at the head of the line.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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