A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro, : $b with an account of the native tribes, and observations on the climate, geology, and natural history of the Amazon valleyWallace, Alfred Russel
History
A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro, : $b with an account of the native tribes, and observations on the climate, geology, and natural history of the Amazon valley
Wallace, Alfred Russel
Amazon River Valley; Brazil -- Description and travel; Indians of South America -- Amazon River Valley; Indians of South America -- Amazon River Valley -- Languages; Natural history -- Amazon River Valley
About a fortnight after our arrival at Pará there were several
holidays, or “festas,” as they are called. Those of the “Espirito
Santo” and the “Trinidade” lasted each nine days. The former was
held at the cathedral, the latter at one of the smaller churches in
the suburbs. The general character of these festas is the same, some
being more celebrated and more attractive than others. They consist of
fireworks every night before the church; Negro girls selling “doces,”
or sweetmeats, cakes, and fruit; processions of saints and crucifixes;
the church open, with regular services; kissing of images and relics;
and a miscellaneous crowd of Negroes and Indians, all dressed in white,
thoroughly enjoying the fun, and the women in all the glory of their
massive gold chains and earrings. Besides these, a number of the higher
classes and foreign residents grace the scene with their presence;
showy processions are got up at the commencement and termination, and
on the last evening a grand display of fireworks takes place, which is
generally provided by some person who is chosen or volunteers to be
“Juiz da festa,” or governor of the feast,—a rather expensive honour
among people who, not content with an unlimited supply of rockets at
night, amuse themselves by firing off great quantities during the day
for the sake of the whiz and the bang that accompany them. The rockets
are looked upon as quite a part of the religious ceremony: on asking
an old Negro why they were let off in the morning, he looked up to the
sky and answered very gravely, “Por Deos” (for God). Music, noise, and
fireworks are the three essentials to please a Brazilian populace; and
for a fortnight we had enough of them, for besides the above-mentioned
amusements, they fire off guns, pistols, and cannon from morning to
night.
After many inquiries, we at last succeeded in procuring a house to suit
us. It was situated at Nazaré, about a mile and a half south of the
city, just opposite a pretty little chapel. Close behind, the forest
commences, and there are many good localities for birds, insects, and
plants in the neighbourhood. The house consisted of a ground-floor of
four rooms, with a verandah extending completely round it, affording
a rather extensive and very pleasant promenade. The grounds contained
oranges and bananas, and a great many forest and fruit trees, with
coffee and mandiocca plantations. We were to pay twenty milreis a
month rent (equal to £2. 5_s._), which is very dear for Pará, but we
could get no other house so convenient. Isidora took possession of an
old mud-walled shed as the domain of his culinary operations; we worked
and took our meals in the verandah, and seldom used the inner rooms but
as sleeping apartments.
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