Difficulties of starting—Descending the Falls—Catching an Alligator—Tame Parrots—A fortnight in Barra—Frei Jozé’s diplomacy—Pickling a Cow-fish—A river storm—Brazilian veracity—Wanawáca—Productiveness of the country—A large Snake—São Gabriel—São Joaquim—Fever and Ague 316 CHAPTER XII. THE CATARACTS OF THE UAUPÉS. Start for the Uaupés—São Jeronymo and Jauarité—Indians run away—Numerous cataracts—Reach Carurú—Difficult passage—Painted Malocca—Devil Music—More falls—Ocokí—Curious rocks—Reach Uarucapurí—Cobeu Indians—Reach Mucúra—An Indian’s house and family—Height above the sea—Tenente Jesuino—Return to Uarucapurí—Indian prisoners—Voyage to Jauarité—Correcting the calendar—Delay at São Jeronymo 341 CHAPTER XIII. SÃO JERONYMO TO THE DOWNS. Voyage down the Rio Negro—Arrive at Barra—Obtaining a passport—State of the city—Portuguese and Brazilian enterprise—System of credit—Trade—Immorality, and its causes—Leave Barra—A storm on the Amazon—Salsaparilha—A tale about Death—Pará—The yellow fever—Sail for England—Ship takes fire—Ten days in the boats—Get picked up—Heavy gales—Short of provisions—Storm in the Channel—Arrive at Deal 369 CHAPTER XIV. THE PHYSICAL GEOGRAPHY AND GEOLOGY OF THE AMAZON VALLEY 404 CHAPTER XV. VEGETATION OF THE AMAZON VALLEY 432 CHAPTER XVI. OBSERVATIONS ON THE ZOOLOGY OF THE AMAZON DISTRICT 446 CHAPTER XVII. ON THE ABORIGINES OF THE AMAZON 476 APPENDIX. VOCABULARIES OF AMAZONIAN LANGUAGES 521 [Illustration: MAP _of the_ RIVER AMAZON _and the Northern part OF_ SOUTH AMERICA. ] TRAVELS ON THE AMAZON AND RIO NEGRO. CHAPTER I. PARÁ. Arrival at Pará—Appearance of the city and its environs—The inhabitants and their costume—Vegetation—Sensitive plants—Lizards—Ants and other insects—Birds—Climate—Food of the inhabitants.