A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro, : $b with an account of the native tribes, and observations on the climate, geology, and natural history of the Amazon valleyWallace, Alfred Russel
History
A narrative of travels on the Amazon and Rio Negro, : $b with an account of the native tribes, and observations on the climate, geology, and natural history of the Amazon valley
Wallace, Alfred Russel
Amazon River Valley; Brazil -- Description and travel; Indians of South America -- Amazon River Valley; Indians of South America -- Amazon River Valley -- Languages; Natural history -- Amazon River Valley
observe, must produce an erroneous impression on the reader, and cause
him, when he visits the spot, to experience much disappointment. As one
instance of what is meant, it may be mentioned that during the first
week of our residence at Pará, though constantly in the forest in the
neighbourhood of the city, I did not see a single humming-bird, parrot,
or monkey. And yet, as I afterwards found, humming-birds, parrots, and
monkeys are plentiful enough in the neighbourhood of Pará; but they
require looking for, and a certain amount of acquaintance with them
is necessary in order to discover their haunts, and some practice is
required to see them in the thick forest, even when you hear them close
by you.
But still Pará has quite enough to redeem it from the imputations we
may be supposed to have cast upon it. Every day showed us something
fresh to admire, some new wonder we had been taught to expect as the
invariable accompaniment of a luxuriant country within a degree of the
equator. “Even now, while writing by the last glimmer of twilight, the
vampire bat is fluttering about the room, hovering among the timbers of
the roof (for there are no ceilings), and now and then whizzing past
my ears with a most spectral noise.” The city itself has been laid out
on a most extensive plan; many of the churches and public buildings
are very handsome, but decay and incongruous repairs have injured some
of them, and bits of gardens and waste ground intervening between the
houses, fenced in with rotten palings, and filled with rank weeds and
a few banana-plants, look strange and unsightly to a European eye. The
squares and public places are picturesque, either from the churches and
pretty houses which surround them, or from the elegant palms of various
species, which with the plantain and banana everywhere occur; but
they bear more resemblance to village-greens than to parts of a great
city. A few paths lead across them in different directions through a
tangled vegetation of weedy cassias, shrubby convolvuli, and the pretty
orange-flowered _Asclepias curassavica_,—plants which here take the
place of the rushes, docks, and nettles of England. The principal
street, the “Rua dos Mercadores” (Street of Merchants), contains
almost the only good shops in the city. The houses are many of them
only one story high, but the shops, which are often completely open in
front, are very neatly and attractively furnished, though with rather
a miscellaneous assortment of articles. Here are seen at intervals
a few yards of foot-paving, though so little as only to render the
rest of your walk over rough stones or deep sand more unpleasant by
comparison. The other streets are all very narrow. They consist either
of very rough stones, apparently the remains of the original paving,
which has never been repaired, or of deep sand and mud-holes. The
houses are irregular and low, mostly built of a coarse ferruginous
sandstone, common in the neighbourhood, and plastered over. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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