On the first intelligence of the pious riots that transformed into
fortresses our peaceful churches, peaceful after the manner of old
haunted castles, the newspaper that I have represented for ten years
asked me, with a certain impatience, for details. As I live in the
Rue de Médicis, having a long-standing passion for the Luxembourg,
its trees, its women, its birds, I went down towards the Place
Saint-Sulpice. The square was occupied by children, playing as they
returned from school; round it rolled great empty omnibuses; now and
again a tramcar widowed of a horse left with difficulty, while another
struggled up and turned round without grace. My prolonged stay in Paris
has made me an idler like every one else. Nothing astonishes me, and
everything amuses me. Besides, I am by nature at once sceptical and
inquisitive. That is why, when I lifted my eyes towards the church, my
attention was vividly excited by the fact that the windows on the side
towards the Rue Palatine seemed lit by the rays of a brilliant sunset.
But the sun had not shone that day, and, even if the sky had been
clear, no reflection could, at that late hour, light the south side of
the church of Saint-Sulpice. I thought of a fire, but no trace of one
was to be seen in the sky. Something unusual was certainly going on
inside. I hurried towards the door in the Rue Palatine. As I advanced,
without losing sight of the windows, I perceived that the light seemed
to be coming down the length of the church, as if blazing torches were
being carried about in this transept of the nave. At the moment when I
went in, the windows by the choir began to shine, while those nearer
the front of the church were now obscure.
Pushing open the door, I went towards the chapel of the Virgin, behind
the high altar. It seemed lit up as if for a feast-day, and yet I heard
no chanting, no music, I perceived no noise. I advanced with steps that
I thought precipitate, but which were, on the contrary, very slow, for,
to my great shame, I felt myself trembling; in the deep silence of
this mournful basilica my heart, it seemed to me, beat like a bell. At
one moment the lights of the chapel shone with such brilliance that I
had to shut my eyes. When I reopened them, it was dark, and some lamps
alone shed their vague, accustomed lights in the now complete obscurity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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