"To this pleasing tableau succeeds very quickly a most picturesque
sight. We now began to feel the influence of the sixth cataract. The
Nile, instead of flowing in majestic breadth, becomes suddenly
contracted, and is converted into a torrent, walled on either side by
cliffs, and carrying us in imagination to the passes in the Pyrenees.
The peak of Raouian and the valley-straits of Sablouk complete the
illusion.
"We land for the purpose of visiting the little village of Dasrurab
and the green plain surrounding it. In the middle of this plain I
notice a number of tripod-shaped tressels, the object of which it is
beyond me to describe. Ali undertakes to enlighten me. It appears
that just about harvest time flocks of birds fly from all parts of
Nubia to collect the grain, in anticipation of the owner thereof. The
latter have hit upon no better idea for the protection of their
property than to place at intervals these tressels or stands, on each
of which a slave has to squat during the whole of the day, thus
taking the place of those dressed-up figures with which we in France
frighten away the birds. The wretched creatures condemned, under a
scorching sun, to play the part of living scare-crows, are as a rule
the aged of both sexes, who, incapable from infirmity of gaining a
livelihood in any other way, thus terribly earn the morsel of bread
which their master condescends to throw to them. Most assuredly, my
dear Pommerelle, the more I reflect, the less I regret, if indeed I
ever regretted it, my yesterday's expedition against the slave-traders.
Don't let anybody talk to me again of the ease and comfort
enjoyed by the Eastern slave. As long as they are ornamental they are
taken the greatest care of, they are decked out and polished till
they positively shine, but as soon as age deteriorates them, they may
rot on any dung-hill.
"We are approaching Khartoum, and the villages on the right bank
become more numerous. The patches of verdure have disappeared, and
the Nile has lost its picturesque character. On the right nothing can
be seen but sandy wastes, apparently skirting the district of Akaba,
an extensive tract of uncultivated country merging into the desert of
Bahiouda.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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